


I 









ClassXX^5:L 
BflokA^^ 

corancur uepusit. 












EDITED BY 



GEO. R. WASHBURNE and STANLEY BRONNER 



PUBLISHED BY 



LOUISVILLE 



A'/.y/-:'r/-:/-:.\' /// ava'av ./.w ioi' k ri:i-:\ 



^-v' 






Copyright. 1911 

Copyright. 1914 

liy liullctin Publishing Co. 

Louisville 



••-■*@CI.A;3T-J514 



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S^^^A HEN the first edition of !5Jcveragcs ~2)e~Cuxe was 
Km m published, the editors expressed the hope that 
^^^^^^ the book would serve as a guide to connoisseurs 
and those who serve them. That this hope 
was realized is attested by the demand from those who enjoy 
the good things of life all over the United States and those 
who have to do with the preparing and serving of these good 
things, necessitating and culminating in the preparation and 
publication of this edition. 

Since the publication of the former edition there has been 
no diminishing of the agitation against the traffic that legiti- 
mately supplies the demand for beverages, but the increased 
use of such beverages, which use is still growing, along with 
the greatest abhorrence of over-indulgence, demonstrates that 
more and more of our people are using beverages moderately 
and properly as they are intended to be used, and, therefore, 
that a book of this kind fills its own peculiar niche and has 
interest for the thousands and thousands of good citizens who 
visit clubs, hotels and such places where the monotony of life 
is broken. 

Much that was good in the former edition of !!^cvcragcs 
~S>^~i.\x\^ is retained in this edition, but there is sufficient 
new matter added of the same high class to make this edition 
practically a new work. The editors will feel amply repaid 
for their efforts if this edition meets with the same favor ac- 
corded the first edition of leverages ~3!)c~Cuxc. 



gcotch and 

Irish Whisky 


liy 

A Staff Editor of 

HiJU'fi's W'hw ami Spirit 

IraJc Circular 

LonJim. hluiflariil 



^^ V^k.^^^ ANY circiiinslaiices ha\e combined lo make in 
^^^gF^W these days Scotch Whisky the most widely dis- 
I « # tribiited of all the Spirituous liquors known to 
^^/ ^^ ^^ modern limes. Perhaps one reason for it being 
so ubiquitous is the ubiquity on the inhabited 
globe of the Scot. But it has .secured for it.self, and is still .secur- 
ing a popularitj- among all nations, for which no mere Scottish 
demand can account. 

If one is able to look back some forty years one's recol- 
lection lights on a time when Scotch Whisky fir.st began to 
supersede in many markets Cognac Brandy in particular, and 
to take the lead as par excellence the Spirit for drinking with 
soda water. Since then the all conquering Scotch Whi.sky has 
become the leading spirituous bevei'age in most of the markets 
of the world, and even after a steady progress of two score years 
its popularity does not seem to be at all on the wane. Its progre.ss 
in the United States has been uniformly steady, and there is no 
better line to handle, than a good Brand of Scotch Whi.sky. 
Many circumstances have been working together to put it to 
ihe front. Advertising has done much to make it known, but 
Scotch Whisky would not be where it is, if it were not for the 
commanding intrinsic value of tht> liciuor which reaches the 
consumer under the aegis of the well-i'cnown brands. One of the 
factors which has contributed greatly to the value, which it is 
l)ossible to give, has been the enormous stock of fine old whiskies 
which some sixteen years ago accumulated in the Distillery 
Warehouses of mainly the Highland Districts of Scotlanfl. When 
Scotsmen lose their head it is generally over some Caledonian 
interest which promises success, and when a Scotman does 
lo.se his head, he loses it entirely. Old Highland Distilleries were 
greatly enlarged, new ones were \n\{ up in the favoured localities, 
and a Hood of fine whisky was poured into stock in the years 
1897-99, which constituted ever since an almost inexhau.stible 
supply of fine matured spirit, which has for the last ten or 
twelve years been "top dressing" the fine blends and which by 
its moderate price has tempted the blender to u.se it and let 
much of the whisky manufactured since also remain a i)eriod in 
bond which it would ceiLainly not have done, had there not been 



tlie biK reserve behind, wiiich has cost tlie sjieculator or liolder 
in its turn so much, if not in downrijrht hard casii, in loss of 
interest on his money. AH this lias been greatly to the advan- 
tage of the article distributed. It may safely be said, that no 
such matured fine spirit as the Scotch Whisky sold under the 
best known brands, can be obtained for the money in any other 
description of spirituous liquors. On tlie continent of Eui'o]ie, 
there is virtually no old beverage spirits of native make sold. As 
liqueurs, and in the shape of a liqueur cognac, old spirits are 
distributed in minute quantities, but in every part of the world 
one can find fine old Scotch Whisky at a moderate iirice ready 
to one's hand, a matured wholesome s])irit. 

No country has as yet been able to manufacture Malt 
Whisky of the style and quality which the best Highland Whiskies 
furnish for the shippers blends. The chemistry of the Highland 
stream and sky and of the peat cut from the mountain side, seem 
in Scotland to have worked together to produce an article which 
has nowhere else been rivalled. Bring the same malt, the same 
peat, to the South, and use the water there, and you fail to catch 
the subtle essences and vapours, which constitute the charm of 
a fine Blend of Scotch, and there has been put together by the 
clever blenders in Scotland a spirit, which stands well ahead in 
that race for popularity in which all articles have to comjiete, 
which claim world-wide acceptance. Scotch \\'hisky certainly 
has run and won up to now, and we do not discern, anywhere, 
a competitor which is even a good second, if quantity only is 
taken into account. 



We are obliged to accord to the Scotch article the leading 
place, which is bespoken by its volume of manufacture, the re 
spective distillations for 1912-1;! being: Scotland 24, and Ire- 
land under 10 million, proof gallons. But as to initial price from 
the distillery and value on the market, Dublin Whisky still holds 
the highest place. The leading distillery there gets .5' — jier 
gallon 25 o. p. for its whisky, which tops the record of the price 
got by any Scotch Malt Distillery of late years. Scotland has 
no great distilleries which export their whiskies in bottle, as do 
some of the Dublin makers. Such firms as John Jameson & Sons, 
and Sir John Power & Son, make, mature and bottle their inire 
Pot-Still Whiskies and ship them under the aegis of their own 
labels to all parts of the world. Irish Whisky therefore stands 
distinctively out in this; that you can have the guarantee of the 
actual maker to his article. This may be illustrated by the fact, 
that the annual capacity of the leading Irish Pot-Still Distiller is 



about a million gallons, whereas there is not a Scotch Hijrhlaiul 
Malt Dislillery which during the last decadfe has made more than 
a quaiter of that quantity. The difference is, that the best and 
most approved Scotch Whisky is a blend sometimes of the makes 
of twenty distillers, whereas for the best Irish an individual dis- 
tiller is responsible for his own make bottled "entire." Blending 
of Irish does take place, but for the best, one has to go to the 
distiller direct, unlike the Scotch article, for which a blender is 
from the nature of things responsible. 





By 
A. M. I IAN AVER 

Of Hambuiyer Distillery 
Pittshurgh. Pa. 




Rye whisky and wry faces do not go together. 
Sit down at home, at the chib or cafe, and when the 
choice, mild, mellow, and matured rye whisky is 
served, you see before you the finest drink man is 
capable of distilling from grain. You smile in con- 
templation, and comprehend how the expression 
arose, "Give me a smile," meaning a drink, around which 
clusters only smile, laughter and joyousness, the good story 
brimful of wit and humor and laughter. One can understand 
why the sah'ation lassies get their best ijickings from the lovers 
of rye. One recalls Bobby Burns and his sweet songs of the rye 
fields, taught us in childhood's happy hours. Was it not r>i.s- 
marck, the greatest statesman of the nineteenth century, and 
himself the proprietor of a distillery, who remarked, "B.eer is 
for women, wine fin- men, and rye for heroes." 

In our country, with its rush and bustle and perpendicular 
drinking, one finds that some men do not understand the fine 
art of eating and drinking and living. You sometimes see such 
a man rush up to the bar, order a fine old rye, gulp it down, 
take some water, and rush out again. That is like turning 
somersaults in church— it is a sacrilege. Oh, no, my friend; 
that is not the way to do. Don't start a conflagration in your 
stomach and then start the fire department after it. Perpen- 
dictular drinking leads to oblique vision. 

The right way is to greet King Rye with ceremony, rever- 
ence and affection, which his age, his strength, his spirit, his 
purity and his birth demand. Treat him right and he will see 
that you are treated right; alnise him and he will see that you 
suft'er. He permits you to look into nature's mirror. The law 
of comijensation holds fast— "whatever you do to him you do to 

yourself." 

Sit down, my friend, and ask for a choice real old rye, a 
nectar fit for the gods. Pour it slowly; feast your eyes on its 
golden hues. Is it the golden fleece for which the argonauts of 
old strived? Inhale its exquisite aroma; enjoy its superb bou- 
quet; it In-ings to the mind's eye the smiling rye fields, the rye 
waving joyously in the sun, and the troop of happy children 
passing through. Look again, and the liquid amber, coupled 
with the word Monongahela, bring remembrances of George 



WashiiiKlon (wlio also uwiieil a tlislillrry ) and the stirring days 
of the whisky insurrection. Looi< again, and you see another of 
the immortals, Lincoln, selling it. Pour a little more; that i.s 
incense, indeed. See the crown of nature's beads that puts a 
diadem on King Rye. it is the essence of summer days concen- 
trated in crystal. A proper palace for King Rye. 

"I'ick him u]) carefully, handle with care; 
l-'ashioned so charmingly and debonair." 

lie is wi'lconu' cvcrywlu'rc. Take liini to your heart and he 
warms it, cheers you, puts you in the best spirits. 

So you ask me how rye whisky is made? Come with me to 
one of the celebrated distilleries of the Monongaheia \'alley; 
the Bridgeport distillery at South lirown.sville, i'a. \Ve will 
take the New York Central lines uij and come down on the 
Penn.sylvania lines, both of wiiich pass through the distillery 
property, and while you are looking at the \ast number of mills 
and iron works in this valley, that succeed one another with 
amazing rapidity until we get beyond Monessen, about forty 
miles from Pittsburg, I will try to tell .\ ou a little about the di.s- 
tillation of whisky before we reach the i)lant ; and, by the way, 
what a number of di.stilleries there are in this \alleyl We first 
pa.ss Finch's, then Tom Moore, while Large is a little in the in- 
terior near Elizabeth, then Sunnyside, C.ibson, the Hamburger 
Distilling Co., Thompson, Vandegrift, the two Old Gray dis- 
tilleries, Emery, Lippincott, and a numbt'r of other smaller 
distilleries. 

You know that Socrates thought the yeasting germ, the 
germ of life itself, and, as you are well aware, all brewing and 
distilling is founded on the fermentation of the licpior through 
the yeast germ. 

Ancient Egypt had its beer, and there is no civilized coun- 
try that does not have its li(|Uor. Scientific brewing and dis- 
tilling is based upon the famous researches of Pasteur. 'I'he 
foundaton that he had has been built upon 1j\' others, so tiiat 
to-day the yeasting and fermenting are scientific studies in or- 
ganic chemistry, while the distillation it.self is a study in alco- 
holmetry. If anywhere the adage holds good that "Cleanliness 
is next to Godline.ss," it is in a distillery, for the healthy yeast 
germ and proper fermentation can only take i^lace where the 
distillery is clean and sweet, and a good yield is then madi'. 

There is another thing that you should know before you 
inspect the distillery, and that is that the entire plant is bonded 
to the United States; that the Government inspectors have 
charge and supervision of everything that goes into the manu- 
facture of whi.sky, and have complete charge of the warehou.ses 
and the goods until they are tax-paid. 

We have now arrived, and after going through the power- 
house, with its battery of boilers and its engines and light plant, 



we see cars of clioice rye on the siding being emptied by convey- 
ing machinery, wliich carries tiie grain into the cleaner. It is 
tlien weiglied and elevated, and from the elevators it is conveyed 
to the mills, where it is ground and sent to the meal hoppers. 
The malt is treated in the same way in separate malt mills. 
The hopper scale is weighed by the Government inspector, and 
the proper amount f)f rye dropped into the mash tub, where 
it is continually stirred while cooking, and after it has been 
cooked to the proper temperature it is cooled off, and the malt 
put in and cooked at a certain temperature until the cooking 
process is complete. Meantime the yeast has been put into the 
fermenting tub. The cooked grain is then run through coolers 
and cooled to the proper temperature and put in the fermenting 
tubs, where it remains not exceeding seventy-two hours. Mean- 
time the distiller is busy taking the temperatures and making 
his tests, and when the saccharine matter is all out, the fer- 
mented liquor or beer is then run into a beer well, from whence 
it is passed into a three-chamber still, then through a doubter and 
run into a tank, from whence it is redistilled, sent to the cistern 
through closed pipes under lock and seal, and then barreled in 
the presence of the United States ganger, from whence it is de- 
livered into the custody of the United States storekeeper as it is 
passed into the \\;irehouses for storage and aging. The whole 
process is interesting, and one could stand by the hour looking 
at the various jihases of the fermentation. 

You ask me wiiy rye is preferred to other grains. Even 
makers of Bourbon whiskies boast of the quantity of small 
grains they use, as that indicates a better (|uality and sweetness, 
and rye makes one of the sweetest whiskies it is possbile to 
distill. 

You have noticed that there is absolutely' no opportunity 
for adulteration; that the entire process is under the argus eyes 
of the Government insjiectors, and probably there is no line of 
industry that has less opportunity for mixing or adulterating 
than the distillation of whisky, as you have seen for yourself. 

You seem surprised at the splendid buiklings, the large 
massive warehouses heated by steam, so that there is a per- 
petual summer, and the goods are maturerl much more rapidly 
than in the olden times. And you also ask to see the bottling 
house, where bottled-in-bond goods are completed. You find it 
a very busy place, the Government inspectors on the look-out 
and the machinery busy, and the hands all intent on their work, 
and you find the.se cases being shipped in lots to all jiarts of the 
country. 

One of my friends in one of the .so-called prohibition States 
sent me the following lines: 

"Drink and the world drinks with you ; 
Swear olf. and vou drink alone." 



J^ourhon 

Whisky 


liy 

GEORGE G. imoXW 

/*tv.siJcnt 0/ firawn-Eurman Company 

L.<iui<.vilU', Kentucky 




Just wlien tlie first distillery was erected in 
J\entucky, I cannot say, but, so far as I know, the 
first recorded reference to whisky was in the year 
1782. This was when Captain Robert Patterson, of 
"Irish-Presbyterian-Covenanter stock," with a com- 
pany of about forty men, started from a point in 
what is now Fayette County, Kentucky, to reach the Oiiio River 
where the Kentucky River empties into it, to meet an expedition 
sent up the Ohio from the fails of that river (now Louisville) 
by General George Rogers Clark. Such an expedition at that 
date was not only perilous, but accomplished under great difH- 
culties; the proper sustenance of the men being one of the prob- 
lems that was encountered. On this expedition the only food 
pi'ovided was a small (luantity of parched corn, to be supple- 
mented by such game as the members could kill en route. In 
Captain Patterson's Company was a rollicking young man 
named Aaron Reynolds, from Bryant's Station, who, it is 
stated, was a very "profane, swearing man." This habit of Rey- 
nolds was extremely di.sagreeable to his Captain, who, after 
bearing with it for four days, concluded to reprove him, and, 
if that failed, and the profanity was persisted in, although 
Reynolds was very much needed on the expedition, he would be 
sent home. Reynolds received the reproof, but persisted in his 
profanity. Captain Patter.son, "a judicious gentleman," con- 
cluded he would try another method for the reformation of Rey- 
nolds, and promi.sed him that, if he would stop swearing, he 
would give him a quart of irliiskii when the expedition reached 
the Ohio River (where doubtless the liquor was obtained from 
the expedition sent up the river by General Clark). Reynolds 
accepted the conditions made by Captain Patterson, and history 
shows that he received the "spirits," according to promise, which 
he and his friends enjoyed. 

There is no further record of Reynolds until a few months 
later when the most sanguinary battle with Indians ever fought 
in Kentucky occurred at the Blue Licks. A very large portion of 
the white men had been killed in this battle. The safety of those 
who escaped was due to the fleetness of their horses and the 
ability of the horses to swim the river. Captain Patterson was 



wounded and lay exhausted on the ground, Reynolds, fleeing on 
horseback, saw his Captain, jumped from his horse, and insisted 
on Patterson taking the horse and making his escape. This 
Patterson was reluctant to do, as it seemed impossible that any 
one without a horse could possibly escape from the Indians, but 
Reynolds put his Captain on the horse and took his chances 
without it. The result was that Reynolds was captured by two 
Indians. He was left in charge of one of them, whom he knock- 
ed down and then made his escape. Patterson was much grati- 
fied upon meeting Reynolds, and, in reply to his question what 
had prompted him to be willing to probably sacrifice his own 
life, for his Captain, was told that it was because his Captain 
reproved him when he needed reproof. Reynolds became a re- 
ligious man, joining the Baptist Church, and, according to tra- 
dition, became a Baptist preacher. I have dwelled upon this 
incident because it brings up the question in ethics as to what 
influence the quart bottle of whisky may have had in changing 
Reynolds from a habitual breaker of one of the Ten Command- 
ments by Patterson violating the eleventh man-made "prohibi- 
tion commandment," "Thou shalt not make, sell, or use an 
intoxicating beverage." I leave the determination of this ques- 
tion to my readers, for I fear I am digressing from my subject, 
"Bourbon Whisky." 

The early settlers of Kentucky, like Noah when he had been 
preserved from the flood, seemed to have felt the need for an 
alcoholic stimulant. Therefore, it is likely that as soon as corn 
had begun to be grown in Kentucky some of it was converted 
into whisky. In the beginning, of course, this was done on a 
very small scale, and in a crude, jn'imitive way, but, as the 
liquor distilled in this way, from corn, in the early days of 
Kentucky, became more and more popular, both on account of 
its flavor as a beverage and its beneficial effect as a stimulant, 
the reputation of Kentucky whisky conmienced to spread beyond 
the borders of the State and a demand for the liquor from all the 
surrounding territory ensued. Thus, the distillation of whisky 
started by settlers of Kentucky for their own use, their families, 
and friends, develojjed into a business to meet the growing de- 
mand for what has since become Kentucky's internationally- 
known product. The first distilleries of the State were located 
on farms; most of the farms of any importance having these 
small stills, which were operated by unskilled men, and without 
much regard to science. But when the Civil War occurred in 
this country, a Federal tax was imposed on whisky, which re- 
quired strict Governmental supervision, and, consequently, 
many of these small stills were abandoned, with the result that 
much larger quantities of whisky have been made in distilleries 



erected on more .scienlilic and ccoiioniic prinuiplL's than had 
been previously made. 

The first whisicy made in Kentucky was produced exclusive- 
ly from corn, which was grown right on the farms where these 
small stills had been set up. Later, it was found that the intro- 
duction of some rye with the corn, in the mash, increased the 
yield of spirits produced and improved the flavor. Still later, 
it was found that barley, malted, further increa.sed the yield. 
The fertile county of Uourboii was the largest producer of 
whisky in Kentucky in those early days, and it is said that the 
first still was erected there. The whisky made in that county 
became known as "B()url)i)ii Whisky." Later, other counties be- 
came celebrated for the quantity and character of their produc- 
tions of whisky, such as Nelson, Anderson, Fayette, Daviess, 
Marion, etc., and in Kentucky, before the Civil War, the county 
in which the whisky was produced became, as it were, a trade 
mark for all the distilleries in such county, so that, among Ken- 
tuckians, whisky was known by the county in which it was dis- 
tilled. But, outside of the State of Kentucky, Bourbon County, 
whicli had been the largest producer of whisky, became the mcst 
important source of supply for the demand for the goods from 
without the borders of the State, and, con.sequently, Kentucky 
whisky was linked with the name of that county. Bourbon, 
therefore, became a generic name, as known outside oi the 
State, to all whisky made in the whole State of Kentucky of 
which the largest percentage of grain, from which it was made, 
consisted of corn. 

Kentucky, having succeeded so well in establishing a legiti- 
mate commerce with Bourbon whisky, the distillers began to 
manufacture other whisky with a larger percentage of rye, and 
sometimes with a total of rye, known as "Rye Whisky," so that 
for more than a quarter of a century all whisky made in Ken- 
tucky has been known as either Bourbon or Rye whisky. As 
indicative of the improvements made in the .scientific distillation 
of whi.sky, I will cite the fact that the yield per bushel of grain 
of about two gallons and a quart of whisky has about doubled 
within the last half century. In my own experience in the busi- 
ne.ss, now pa.st forty years, I remember buying a crop of old- 
fashioned sour mash whisky, the yield of which was oidy two 
and one-fourth gallons per bushel. Such a small yield as this 
now would entail on the producer the payment of the (tovern- 
ment tax of $1.10 per gallon on the deficiency for his failure to 
obtain as much spirits from each bushel of grain as the Govern- 
ment, after surveying the distillery, holds should be the mini- 
mum amount produced in 1h(> iilant. 



Much of tilt' wliisky made in Kentiicl\y in its early history 
was shipped by Hatboats down the Ohio and Mississi))])! Rivers 
to New Orleans. The reputation of Kentucky Bourbon whisky 
has grown vastly since the Civil War, until now "Old Kentucky 
Bourl)on" is a synonymous term for "the best whisky." While 
Bourbon has probably become a generic name for whisky made 
for aging purjuises where corn jireponderates in its manufac- 
ture, Kentucky can never become generic except for whisky 
made in that State, and Kentucky naturally revolts at having 
whisky made outside of its boi'ders branded as made within its 
borders. The high reputation of Kentucky Bourbon whisky 
among the finest beverages of the world is jealously regarded, 
and has been well earned, for, as a beverage, either when taken 
straight or in any of the many delightful, exhilarating mixtures 
in which Bourbon forms the base, or, to mention more specifical- 
ly, an old-fashioned Kentucky toddy or mint julep, there is no 
finer drink known to man, either brewed, fermented, or dis- 
tilled. 



Domestic 
Gins 


liy 
E. J. DANIELS 

of Baird-Dank'h Co. 
New York 




In the last ten years the distillation of Domestic 
tiins lias taken very rapid strides in the United 
States, and the j^in in(kistry has done much to con- 
vince the American consumer ol' the fact that a good 
honest product can be manufactured here as well as 
in Europe. 

It is not many years ayo that it was the average American's 
opinion tliat everything imported was good, and that everything 
domestic was inferior, but, thanks to the progressive spirit of 
the American manufacturer, this erroneous conception is grad- 
ually disappearing. A multitude of sins were frequently cov- 
ered under an imported label, and on this account the firm with 
which the writer is associated adopted several years ago the 
motto, "It can be only prejudice that prefers foreign inferiority 
to domestic superiority." 

A campaign of education, with the object in view of over- 
coming prejudice, is of necessity a hard one. This prejudice has 
often been warranted, for the old-fashioned American desire for 
making money quickly accounts for domestic products of in- 
ferior quality ; however, these exceptions merely make the rule. 
The rule is that the American manufacturer's honesty is 
second to none. This, coupled with unexcelled ingenuity, lib- 
eral business ideas and great progressi\eness, ci'eates conditions 
for the domestic pi'oducts of which any American can justly be 
proud. 

The protective tarilf has benefited domestic indu.stries, and 
at the present time European manufacturers are coming to this 
country, building here their jilants, emjjloying American labor, 
benefiting their locality, enriching this country at large, and 
confirming the formerly disputed theory that meritorious prod- 
ucts could be produced in the new world as well as in the old. 

It is strange, but true, that very few people know anything 
about Gin. "Gin is made from Juniper berries," is the general 
answer one receives to the question what (Jin really is, and 
when given the information that Gin is distilled from grain, and 
that Juniper berries are only used for flavoring purposes, he is 
greatly surprised. "Gin" is a derivation from the word "Gene- 



va." and that is the proper Eiiglisli word. "Geneva" is derived 
from the Latin word "Juniperus," the French for Cin being 
"Jenievre," and the Dutch calling it "Jenever." 

The Hollanders were the first nation to distill (iin. The 
industry in that country dates back to the period when the 
Dutch were the foremost seafarers and carried a broom at the 
masthead, symbolical of sweeping the seas. They probably dis- 
covered the Juniper berry along the Mediterranean shores. 

Holland is not a grain-producing country, and the various 
grains used for distilling purposes are either of American oi' 
Russian origin. 

Without going into much scientific detail as to the distilla- 
tion of Holland Gin, it is probably of interest to know that rye 
and varous cereals (principally Malted Barley) are ground, 
and, in accordance with their starchy qualities, are subjected to 
various degrees of heat. The "mash," a.s the mixture is called, 
is allowed to ferment for seventy-two hours, after which it is 
distilled. This distillate is called Moutwyn, and is later re-di.s- 
tilled with Juniper berries. In the distillation of Old Tom, Dry 
and Sloe Gins, a variety of herbs, seeds and roots is used, which 
imparts a dirt'erent flavor to it than that which characterizes 
Holland (Jin. These gins have become very popular in this 
country, and are mostly uso'd for the well known and .I'ustly 
famous American mixed drinks, as Martini Cocktails, Gin 
Rickeys, Gin Fizzes and many others. 

A (luestion which is very often asked is, "Does Gin improve 
with age?" The answer to this question is in the affirmative, 
but, as the improvement can only take place by the (jin coming 
in contact with the wood of the cask, the Gin turns yellow, and 
is not saleable, as the American consumer (for some unexplain- 
able reason) requires Gin to be perfectly white. To humor this 
whiin the distiller uses paraffine wax, which is boiled to a high 
degree of heat and poured into the cask. A thin coating of 
paratfine is thus formed on the inner surface of the cask, which 
prevents the Gin from coming in contact with the wood, and 
consequently retaining its color. 

In concluding this short article on Domestic Gins, let us 
rejoice that we are living in a country which is progressing with 
amazng rapidity ; a country whose Government protects home 
industries, and where the workingmen receive wages higher 
than those of other nations. We equally rejoice for the pa- 
triotic American good sense which has made it possible for the 
Domestic Gin industry to have become the important factor it 
is to-day. 



Jsjew England 
Rum 


IREDERIC L. FELTON 

Of f'cllon ct Son 

Boslan. Mass. 



^^^^ Any account ol" beverages de luxe would be 

J|^*^|^ incomplete without some reference to the distilla- 
m <#M| *^i"" "^ Rum, an industry which dates back to the 
■«M<<ii^B ^'^^^'^^' ''''i'^ °^ ^^^ colonies, and which has con- 
^Kk^i^V tinned with the usual variations down to the 

^^I^F present date. One of the first points, of course, 
is to disabuse the mind of the reader of any idea which he may 
have that this refers to Rum in the extremely broad and general 
sense in which the word is used by nearly all of the anti-lifiuoi' 
element, as well as by some who are in the habit of using stimu- 
lants. It is a common thing in even the best journals to see 
references such as "Rum did it," or "The Rum element," the 
terms being meant to cover everything alcoholic. As a matter 
of fact, the production of Rum in this country is about one and 
one-half per cent, of the total production of strong alcoholic 
liquors, and the actual use of Rum as a beverage is still smaller 
proportionately. 

IMany articles and chapters have been written on the be- 
ginning of the manufacture of Rum, as well as the derivation 
of the word itself. As to the exact period when the distillation 
of a i)otable liquor from molasses began, it is pi-()l)al)ly i)rac- 
tically coeval with the beginning of the manufacture of the cane 
sugar itself. According to a paper on the etymology of the 
word "Rum," written for pi'i\ate circulation some years ago by 
N. Darnell Davis, who at that time occujiied an imjiortant of- 
ficial position in the colony of British (iuiana, Rum was first 
distilled from the juice of the sugar cane in Barbadoes about 
the year 1640 or 104.5, and the name the planters of the colony 
gave to the new liquor was "kill devil." At a comparatively 
early period it was called "Rum-bullion," a word which expres.sed 
the idea of a great quarrel or tumult. 

In the library of Trinity College, Dublin, there is a manu- 
script containing a de.scription of Barbadoes about the year 1651. 
The writer refers to the new spirit as follows: "The chief 
fuddling they make in the i.sland is Rum-bullion, alias Kill 
Divill, and this is made of sugar canes distilled, a hot, hellish, 
and terrible liquor." 



Mr. Davis thinks that it was about the year IGGO that lluiii- 
bullion was clipped of two of its syllables, but the hrst mention 
of the abridged word in any public document in Barbadoes ap- 
pears to have been in an act passed in 1668 to prevent the sale 
of both brandy and rum in the tippling houses near the most 
frequented highways or roads of the island. The word "Hum," 
however, occurs in certain orders of the Government and coun- 
cil of Jamaica as early as 1661. 

As to the exact date of the beginning of this industry in the 
United States, Rum appears to have been manufactured in New 
England before 1687, as "New England Rum" sold in that year 
at Is. 6d. per gallon, which is practically to-day's wholesale 
price for New Rum, not including the internal revenue tax. 

In the old days of this country many of the best men of the 
town of Boston, in addition to being great ship owners, were 
distillers of New England Rum, those two industries being put 
down in the history of the times as two of the most important 
in Boston, and the commodity itself was not only used as a 
staple for family consumption and as a cheering adjunct to 
official and social events, as the hiying of corner stones of pub 
lie buildings and the building of churches, but was early used 
as one of the great instruments in assisting to civilize and 
Chrstianize our black brothers in Africa. During all of the 
time since, the distillation of Rum has been contined almost 
entirely to New England, all the Rum made in this country, in 
fact, having come to bear the distinctive name, "New England 
Rum," as being different from the imported article. 

The Rum of domestic use to-day, which has been aged for 
many years in the wood, is very different from the "hot, hellish, 
and terrible liquor" above referred to. Much care is taken by 
tiiose distillers making a specialty of fine old Rum in the selec- 
tion of their molas.ses, the fermentation and distillati(ni, as well 
as in the selection of the barrel and storage in which it is kept. 
Both as an art and an industry, the business of distilling Rum 
has remained, as a sort of heirloom, through successive genera- 
tions in some of our oldest and most resjiectable New England 
families, who have taken pride and pains in bringing it up to 
the highest attainable standard of jierfection. 

The general tendency noticeable in other lines of business, 
too numerous to specify individually, toward consolidation, or 
at least towards fewer and larger manufacturing iilants, has 
applied as well to the manufacture of New England Rum, and 
while in 1753 there were sixty-three distilleries in Ma.s.sachusetts, 
and fifty years ago perhaps thirty small distilleries scattered 
along the New England coast from New Haven to Portland, 



there are to-day but eight in the I'liited States, all but one of 
those being located in New England, and only two outside of 
Massachusetts. 

While, during the past thirty years, there has been an in- 
crease of about 125 per cent, in the production of distilled spirits 
in general, there has been practically no increase in the produc- 
tion of Rum. 

The maximum production ol' iium reached 2,4:59,.']01 gal- 
lons in the fiscal year ending June 30, 1880. 

The manufacture of Rum has not kept jjace with the in- 
crease in population. This is due to the fact that drinking, like 
other things, including architecture and clothes, has its styles, 
varying from time to time, sometimes for good reasons, some- 
times for none. 

For many years during tlie early history of the country, 
Uluii, which is made only from molasses, was practically the 
only strong liquor in use, as nearly all grain in the country was 
consumed as food. 

American (Ryo and Houriion ) whisky, the i)roducts of 
grain, may be .said to have come in style about the time of the 
Civil War, although George Washington made some at Mount 
Vernon, and there was considerable di.stillation throughout the 
South, its consumption increasing gradually for many years, it 
taking the place formerly occupied by Rum as a national bev- 
erage. Fifteen or more years ago Scotch whisky began an in- 
creasing popularity, and in the .same way, although perhaps in 
a lesser degree, there has been during the past two or three years 
an increasing demand for fine old Rum. 

Another reason for the lack of growth of the Rum industry 
is found in the fact that alcohol for medicinal and manufactur- 
ing ])urposes can be generally more cheaply jjroduced from grain 
than from molasses. But many old-fashioned i)eople and good 
Judges of liciuor still adhere to the use of our foi-efiithers' favorite 
drink. 

It is evident that the actual ])r(i(iuction in gallons ha\ing 
remained about the same, and the number of distilleries ha\ing 
decrea.sed, those distilleries now in e.xistence, or some of them, 
at least, mu.st be of much larger capacity than those of the early 
days. The largest Rum distilleries now in oi)eration are located 
within the Boston Metropolitan district, one of them alone hav- 
ing a capacity of more than 1,500,000 gallons per annum. Some 
of them, however, still remain jiractically unchanged from our 
grandfathers' days. 

In financial standing and in good rei)utation of tho.se en- 
gaged in it, this industry compares favorably to-day as it did in 
its beginning with any other in the country. 



j\merican 

Beers 



By 
H. E. U. HEINEMANN 

Editor 

American Brewers' Rei'iew 

Chicago 



The beverage popularly known as "beer" in 
^ll^ America to-day is derived from the German type 

Hp ^ of bottom fermented beer. In the earl\- 
^fr clays of the country beer meant the same as 

^^ f it does to-day in England, where it applies 

^■|£?"'*^ to the types prepared by top fermentation, 
^^ comprising ale, stout, porter and their va- 

rieties. That is to say, it applied to these fiipcs, although, 
of course, the character of them has changed considerably since 
colonial days and, like other food products, has been vastly im- 
proved since the articles are produced on an industrial scale 
instead of by home brewing. The ales, stouts and porters still 
maintain a certain vogue in Eastern States. 

While derived from the German types, American l)eer has 
developed a character of its own. European experts who have 
traveled in this country have said that it is impossible to decide 
the question which is better, there being so much difference of 
character that comparison is impracticable. They have agreed 
that American beers average fully as good as German beers for 
those who like their character. Americans traveling in Ger- 
many report that American beers average higher in quality 
than the German. Perhaps this oi>inion may also be due to 
personal preference of character. American critics of American 
beers usually compare the average American beers with those 
imported from Germany, without stopping to reflect that the 
export beers shipped to this country are the pick of the whole 
country, specially brewed for export, and necessarily of excep- 
tional quality because otherwise they would not stand the hard- 
ships of export, especially since the American food law excluded 
the use of preservatives, like salicylic acid. 

The peculiar character of American beer was developed in 
response to the peculiar requirements of the public taste. It is 
often said by thoughtless or uninformed persons that American 
brewers ought to return to the original German t\pe of l)eer. 
But those who have tried it— and there are many— ha\e in- 
variably found that there was no demand for such beers, and 
have been obliged to give them up. 



When Ihe American wants a drink lie wants a drink. W'lien 
the German wants a drink of beer he expects to get a small meal. 
The American wants a light, thin, .sparkling, snappy beverage 
with a good aroma and spicy taste, and he also wants a beverage 
that is pleasing to the eye, because he drinks from a gla.ss, 
where the German drinks from a stone mug. This last reciuire- 
ment has given extraordinary importance to the matter of ap- 
pearance in American beers. A German does not object to 
haziness or even cloudiness in beer, in fact the best German and 
Bohemian beers are always cloudy, particularly when served 
almo.st ice cold, as is the practice in this country. The American 
wants his beer clear and brilliant. He also wants it very cold. 
Low temperature freciuently causes precipitation of albuminous 
matters in the beer with consequent cloudiness. Hence, Ameri- 
can beers cannot have the heavy body of German beers. They 
also average a trifle lighter in alcohol than German beers. 

Another circumstance that lias contributed to the modifica- 
tion of the original (Jernian type into the modern American 
tyjie is the great exjjansion of tlie bottle beer industry. This 
is almost exclusively American. IJottle beer is comparatively a 
recent development in Kurojje. Tiie domestic ice chest is not so 
universal in Europe, and it is therefore more difficult to keep 
beer in the house. Bottle beer is exposed to greater hardships 
than keg beer. Where keg beer goes there is always the neces- 
sary furniture to keep and tap it, whereas bottle beer goes into 
many places where there is scant provision for handling it 
properly, which is a matter of great importance with so per- 
ishable an article as beer generally is. This condition of the 
market has contributed further to the thorough clarification of 
American beer .so as to eliminate all substances which may lead 
to deterioration when kept for a long time and exposed to heat 
and cold by untrained hands. The matter of .stability thus 
acquires exceptional importance in American beer, and the 
jiroblem has been solved with a fair degree of success. It is 
the object of research at present and promises an early com- 
plete solution. 

As is well known, the chief base of mo.st types of beer is 
barley malt. American barleys have a higher albumen content 
than German barleys, and, partly to offset this excess, partly 
to produce the light character demanded by the American taste, 
almost all American beers are made with an admixture of other 
grains to add to the starch contained in the barleycorn. I'"'or 
this purpo.se rice and corn are u.sed, being freed from the husk 
and, in the case of corn, from the germ, in order to eliminate 
matters that are objectionable to the taste. 

In the production of beer, the barley is malted, which means 



it is sprouted to a certain degree, found by long experience to 
afford the proper measure of dissolution of the starch and al- 
bumen and to develop the required amounts of diastase and 
peptase — ferments which convert starch into sugar and dextrin 
and modify the albumen — after which the malt is (juickly dried 
and heated to a sutticient degree to stop growth and produce 
tiie desired aromatic properties. The malt is ground and 
mashed. To mash means to mix with water of certain tempera- 
ture and by constant stirring and adjustment of temperatures 
to extract and modify the solid constituents of the grain, chiefly 
starch, albumen and mineral matters. It is in the ma.sh that 
rice or corn products are added, after being boiled separately. 
The liquid run off from the mash tub, called "wort," is run into 
a copper kettle and boiled for a certain time, hops being added 
while in the kettle. The object served by the hops is mainly to 
give aroma and taste, but they also act as a natural preserva- 
tive. The wort is then run over coolers, extreme care being 
taken to prevent access of foul air or substances which might 
introduce germs that would start undesirable fermentations. 
The wort is run into fermenting tanks, and yeast admixed. The 
yeast is a ferment which splits up sugar into carbonic acid and 
alcohol, just as it does in bread, only in wort it acts more 
strongly. When the desired degree of fermentation is reached 
the wort is run into casks, where it is kept for a time to undergo 
secondary or slow fermentation ami to allow solids to settle 
out. When it has reached the degree of aging and clarification 
that is necessary it is racked, or filled off, into shplping pack- 
ages. During the storage or aging period most of the carbonic 
acid gas has escaped, and in order to restore the life and 
sparkle which depends upon this gas, some young wort is added 
before the beer is filled into the packages, or the beer is car- 
bonated, that is, the fermentation gas is reincorporated with the 
liquid under pressure. The beer is filtered before going into 
the packages. Bottle beer goes through elaborate bottling ma- 
chinery, and is usually pasteurized. 

Some types of yeast, while working in the beer, rise to the 
top and form a thick film, and are skimmed off" or allowed to 
overrun. They are called top-fermenting. Other types settle 
on the bottom when a certain degree of fermentation has been 
reached. They are called bottom-fermenting. They produce 
different tastes and aromas. American beers are prepared with 
the bottom-fermenting yeast, except the ales, stouts and por- 
ters, which, like all English beers, are prepared by top-fermenta- 
tion. 

All through these processes, infection by foreign germs is 
carefully avoided. It has been said by a prominent food official 



that the only perfectly clean food factory is the brewery, and 
beer an absolutely clean article of food. 

The average composition of American beer is 5.29 per cent, 
extract, consisting chiefly of sugar, dextrin, albumen and min- 
eral substances, and .'5.82 per cent, by weight of alcohol, the rest 
being water. This makes a content of about i) per cent, nutritive 
matter. The solid content of milk runs ordinarily from 12 to 14 
per cent. It is thus seen that beer possesses considerable nutri- 
tive value. 

It is chiefly as a food relish, however, that beer maintains 
that great popularity, which in the year 1913 showed in the 
consumption of 66,933,393 barrels. It is thoroughly understood 
by physiological chemists — and while perhaps not .scientifically 
understood by the people generally, carried out in practice — 
that relishes are quite as important in the nutrition of man as 
tho.se articles which supply the chemical constituents recjuired 
for building tissue and supplying energy. It is not so important 
irhat we eat as hoiv we eat. A meal enjoyed "sets" well. The 
best meal taken without relish, will not benefit a man. Beer 
supplies relish to the taste, and by the alcohol content stimulates 
the mind and enhances the social pleasures of the meal. Therein 
lies its chief virtue. By the moderate stimulation it afl'ords, it 
gives to the .system the relief from the monotony of the work- 
a-day world which every normal person craves, and, satisfying 
it in a proper way, fore.stalLs excess. It is thus one of the most 
effective agencies of temperance. 

It would be unheard-of to conclude an article on beer with- 
out saying .something of its history. Much has been written on 
that subject, but it was never dealt with in a really thorough- 
going manner until Mr. John P. Arnold, of Chicago, published 
his book on the "Origin and History of P>eer and Brewing," 
which was was gotten out in 1911 as a memorial of the twenty- 
fifth anniversary of the founding of the Wahl Henius Institute 
of Fermentology. A few passages from this monumental worlv 
will shed a better light on the anti(iuity of beer in the history 
of the human race and its intimate entwining with the customs 
of i)i'iniitive society than could any other statement. Mr. Arnold 
shows that the use of intoxicants was not only a \ery earl\- 
practice, but most closely a.ssociated with religion. Ceremonial 
dances, vapors of a narcotic character, and intoxicants of various 
kinds were early employed to produce those states of spiritual 
exaltation or self-hypnose which were believed to place man in 
direct intercourse with deity. The following quotations are 
from Mr. Arnold's book : 

"Cerevisia (the Latin name for beer), to judge by its ety- 
mological derivation and its history, stood originally for fer- 



mented 'wax' or 'honey-comb water,' and in a history of beer it 
stands conspicuous as the most primitive form of fermented 
liquor, manufactured by prehistoric man even before he cul- 
tivated cereals, before he knew how to bake bread with the aid 
of yeast, and before he understood how to brew beer out of 
cereals or bread. '■'' * * 

"Pliny has left us a Keltic expression for a species of cereal 
which is of fundamental significance for the history of beer. 
It is the word 'brace.' 'The Gauls,' he remarks XVIII, II, 'have 
a kind of spelt peculiar to that country. They give it the name 
(tf 'brace.' 

"While this Keltic word, therefore, means above all a species 
of cereals, spelt, or a variety of wheat, which because of its very 
white flour was employed mainly for brewing beer, it came about 
that this name for a cereal beca'me also the name for the inash 
material, the malted 'brace,' or malt, but this malt, 'the soul of 
beer,' as it has been termed by several writers, became the patent 
name for a whole number of popular expressions, all of them 
intimately connected with the jirocess of brewing, with the ac- 
tivity of the brewer, and with the calling or profession of the 
brewer. 

"This Keltic 'brace' — so designated by Pliny — is: Irish for 
malt: brae, brath, brach, genit, braich, or bracha, corresponding 
with Welsh and t'ornish: brag, whence Welsh bragaud (a kind 
of beer). Old English bragot (a kind of beer). Modern English 
bracket (a kind of beer), and means in all Keltic tongues 'malt.' 

"From this Keltic parent word are derived the Latinized 
words of the early and later middle ages whereof we cite a few: 
Bracium : crushed malt, mash materials; bracium pressum : 
crushed malt, mash materials; brasina : malt mill; braceator, 
braxator: the brewer; braxatorium, bracitorium : the brewery. 

"And in modern French, 'brasser,' to brew ; 'bras.serie,' 
brewery; 'brasseur,' brewer; 'brassin,' the brew; and 'brai,' 
'bray,' 'brais' (Old French), malt, crushed malt. 

"Derived from the Irish 'brach' and the Welsh 'brag,' 
'bragio' sprout, we find a kind of aromatic and sweetened ale, the 
'bracket,' or 'bragaut,' sweetened with honey. 'Rragget Sunday' 
is Mid-Lent Sunday, when it was the custom to celebrate with 
'bragget.' The Irish 'bruighfer' in olden times was a public 
functionary, and at the same time public hospitaller. 

" 'Braga,' 'bragga,' 'braka' are also beers of the Cossaks, 
Tai'tars, Ruthenians, etc. 

"The Keltic has the same root word for 'to brew' as the 
Anglo-Saxon: breowan ; Old High (German: briuwan; Gothic: 
briggwan; Old Norse: brugga; Middle High German: bruwan; 
Modern English: to brew; Modern German: brauen. 



"In following up these traces, we meet with relationship 
much more ancient than all these, namely with the Indo-Germanic 
'bhru," whence too, the Phrygo-Thracian beer, 'bryton,' takes its 
name. But more than that, according to the etymological au- 
thorities, the root Tor brewing and bread is the same, about 
which Prof. Fr. Kluge says: 'In lii'cad it would be wrap])ed 
up in the si)ecial significance of "baking." ' Hence we again 
call attention to the theory, several times promulgated by us in 
this work, that brewing and baking went together in prehi.s- 
toric times. Indeed, we go further than that. We claim that 
the primary activity of baking, namely, the prepai'ation of the 
bread, and tiie primary activity of brewing, namely, the prepara- 
tion of the bread mash (dough mash), is really one and the same 
The linguistic conception was the .same, in the al)original form of 
the Indo-European tongue (says Klug) and we claimed that the 
activity itself (i. e., that which is expre.ssed by the verb) is also 
identical in brewing and baking. We do not mean to say, how- 
ever, that brewing and baking — as one might be inclined to 
suppo.se from the identity of the root 'bhru' — originated both 
at the same time. Indeed, 'baking' is more ancient than 'brew- 
ing,' and in this sense, too, the roasted or toasted dough-cake is 
older than the liquor brewed out of this 'bread.' But just be- 
cau.se 'to make a bread-ma.sh' is derived from 'to make bread,' 
for this very same reason brewing is derived from 'bread-mak- 
ing.' " 






^ 3ff''"^'^ 



A Bottle of 

English Beer 


By 

H. J. FINLA Y 

Of H. P. Finlay & Co. 

New York 



^^rJ^^ XCELLENT in itself as Beer may be, it likewise 

W^^ liHs a pedigree to be proud of. Credit is given 

T^ for the invention of brewing to an ancient king 

Z^^^0 of Egypt — Osiris by name. Be this as it nia.w 

abundant rec(jrds of Beer are still found upon the 

Great Pyramid — mostly, however, ;is "empties." 

Both the Greeks and the Gauls liad a decided partiality Inr 
Beer, which is mentioned by Socrates B. C. 420, as \\'ell as by 
other ancient writers. Such facts lead us to speculate whether 
the brewing of Beer may not be a natural instinct implanted 
within the human breast. 

Later on, brewers increased and multiplied, and became 
great ones of the earth and mighty. Their lieer has always 
jdayed an important, if unseen, part in Britisli history. Thus, 
for instance, when England was like to become a Sijanish de- 
pendency, the valiant Drake declared that he must be supj^lied 
liberally with Beer, if he was to crush the Armada. He got it, 
and he did it ! No more, however, need be said to prove the 
antiquity and the worth of Malt Li(iuor. Like the equator, 
therefore. Beer is not to be spoken of disi'espectfully. 

The use of hops, which impart keeping properties to Beer, 
was not discovered until the sixteenth century, if we are to be- 
lieve the couplet: 

"Hops, Reformation and Beer 
Came into England all in one year." 



Since then the three B's — Beef, Beer and the r>il)le — have 
become established articles of faith in Britain. 

The greatest brewing center in England, or, indeed, in the 
world, is situated at Burton-on-Trent, where Messrs. Bass & Co. 
stand conspicuous among an array of competitors. The pros- 
perity of Burton-on-Trent of late years has been remarkable. 
This is owing to the increasing jiojiular taste for a lighter bev- 
erage than the potent strong Beers of the past generation, and 
to the peculiar suitability of Burton water for the pi'oduction 
of delicately-flavored Ales. 



IJurtun-on-Treiil lies in a basin ol' marl and fj^ypsum which 
strongly impregnate the water collected in the brewery wells. 
The water is, therefore, very "hard," and this, as we shall see, 
is of great benefit. 

Good water is indispensable to good brewing, but ab.solutely 
pure water (oxide of hydrogen) is never met with in nature. 
Its solvent properties are so great that it dissolves more or less 
of most substances with which it comes in contact. The smallest 
trace of organic matter renders it utterly unfit for brewing 
purposes; no matter how bright and sparkling it may appear 
to the eye, such water will not "keep," and therefore the Beer 
which migiit he l)rewed from it would not keep either. 

"Hard" water is suitable only for Ale, not for Stout. It is 
this simple fact, and not mere caprice, which has singled out 
Dublin as the more appropriate birthplace for Stout. 

"Soft" water extracts more from the malt than is desired 
by the brewers of Ale, while the hard Burton water has less 
attinity for the albuminous principles contained in the malt. 
Much in the same way when peas are boiled in soft water they 
are reduced to pulp, but if boiled in hard water their outside 
.skin is toughened, and they retain their individual shape. 

It is frequently supposed that the water u.sed for brewing 
at Burton is taken from the River Trent. This, of course, is a 
mistake — It is drawn from wells. The demands made by brew- 
ers upon these wells of late years have sometimes .severely taxed 
their resources, and the si)ring water is now used only for con- 
version into Ale. 

But we must not linger o\er the crystal water, fresh from 
its rock depths, for we have to \'isit the maltings. These great 
detached buildings stretch in a long and uniform line as far as. 
the eye can carry, and they are used exclusively for the purpose 
of converting the barley into malt, which must be done ere it is 
fit for brewing. 

The grain be.st suited to brewing Beer is barley, and much 
depends on the character of the -soil that grows it, as well as on 
the dryness or wetne.ss of the .sea.son. 

It is not every kind of barley that will make good malt, and 
great is the care and zeal exercised at Burton to obtain the very 
choicest and most suitable growths, no matter whether they be 
from the United Kingdom or abroad. 

The operation of malting is performed as follow\s: The 
barley is first placed in shallow ci.sterns, where it is .steeped in 
water, and afterwards spread out to the depth of a few inches 
on large drying floors. 

It (juickly gets warm of its own accord, and under the com- 
bined inOuence of warmth and moisture it .soon begins to .sprout. 



when this lias jiroceeded a certain length it is dried by the kiln, 
which, of course, stops further germination, and, wherein the 
original insoluble starch of the grain has, by Nature's own 
magic, been converted into soluble malt-sugar. 

If dried at a low temperature it is "Pale Malt," from which 
Pale Ale is brewed ; but if roasted at a greater heat it is partially 
carbonized, and becomes "Brown Malt," suitable for brewing 
Stout. 

This is the only reason for the ditl'erence in color between 
Ale and Stout. 

The brewer crushes the malt between heavy rollers to break 
the husk, and the malt-meal is then thoroughly mixed with 
warm water in the mashtun by a ferocious instrument called a 
"porcupine." The malt is finally e.xhausted by a huge overgrown 
watering pot, tei-med a sparger. It has long revolving arms, 
and as the water descends in a gentle shower it carries with it 
what remains soluble in the malt, and the "grains" only, corre- 
sponding with the tea-leaves in the pot, are left behind. The 
resulting liquor, now called "wort," is then strained olf and 
transferred into coppers, where it is boiled for several hours 
with the hops. 

After sufficient boiling the wort is rapidly cooled in refrig- 
erators containing long coils of pipes, through which a stream 
of cold water continually runs. 

The cooled wort is still not a bit like Beer. Even a tee-totaler 
might drink of this particularly nasty and mawkish fluid if he 
could bring himself to do so, for thus far it contains no alcohol ; 
this can be produced only by the agency of fermentation. 

Fermentation is started by inoculating the wort with pure 
yea.st. Yea.st is a vegetable organism, consisting of myriads of 
microscopic cells or globules, which rapidly multiply in the 
"wort" at the expense of certain of its constituents; and these 
minute cells are endowed with the marvelous power of elab- 
orating alcohol, or, in other words, of transforming the dull and 
lifeless wort into sparkling Ale. 

The newly-born Pale Ale is then racked into casks and 
stored away in vast quantities that certainly look sufficient to 
meet any demand, but which rapidly melt away as the thirsty 
season comes on. 

Beer reserved for export bottling is brewed from the choic- 
est materials. It is, indeed, an altogether superior quality, and 
is priced accordingly. 



Qalifornia 

Wines 


By 
HORATIO F. STOLL 

Sec'y Grape Growers' Ass'n 
itf California 



^^^^^^^ ]''or forty years our ji:ood, sound, California 

^^^H^^^ hulk wines have been winning their way in the 

^^^^^Cm ^reat markets of the world. But until the Pui'e 

^^^^^^B|v l''ood Law put a stop to the practice a few years 

^^H^^Pf ago, a large quantity of our choice wines were bot- 

^^B^^ tied in Eastern cellars by unscrupulous dealers and, 

under the label of some famous chateau, were sold at fancy 

prices purely through the potency of the false crest. 

Within the past fifteen years, however, the winemakers of 
California have begun to bottle their own wines and introduce 
them under their own bi'ands, and desjjite the man.v obstacles 
they have had to overcome, their success has been remarkable. 
Public prejudice in favor of the foreign article, the difficulty of 
securing avenues of disti'ibution. the jjrohibition movement which 
has wiped out markets almost o\i'rniglil. and the ditliculty of 
finding suitable names to make their cased goods known, have 
all retarded their i)rogress, but the struggle in the long run has 
been jirolitabk' and thoroughly worih whde. 

Our hard-earned success is not a matter of chance. (Jod 
Almighty fa\()i'ed this State with the right climate and the 
proper soil and our winemakers have supplemented these en- 
dowments with the choicest varieties of grai)es, the best skill 
and the most intelligent labor in the world. It, therefore, .stands 
to rea.son that we can and now do i)roduce wines which in purity 
and quality are in every way equal to the imi)orted brands. 

The counties of California which grow grapes that produce 
wines analagous to the Claret, Cabernet, Chablis, Chianti, Ries- 
ling and Sauterne types are all contiguous to the Bay of San 
Francisco, where by rea.son of the influence of the .sea fogs the 
temperature is modified and the grapes ripen at a point of sugar 
and acidity suitable for the advantageous fermentation of choice 
dry wines. They include Mendocino, Sonoma, Lake, Napa, So- 
lano, Alameda, Contra Costa, Santa Clara, Santa Cruz, and San 
Benito Counties. 

The sections producing Port, Sherry. Madeira, Angelica 
and other sweet wines are in the interioi-. where the climatic 
conditions and soil are such that the grapes rijjen at a compara- 



tively higli sugar and low acid point. 'I'lie princiiial counties 
are Yolo, Sacramento, San Joaquin, Madera, Fresno, Kings, 
Tulare, covering the great Sacramento and San .loaquin Val- 
leys, and Sail liernardino County. 

As compared with the immense output of France and Italy, 
our annual production of about 45,OO0,(K)O gallons is small, but 
it must not be forgotten that it has taken those two European 
countries nearly 2,000 years to plant their extensive vineyards 
and create a world-wide market for their wines. Pliny, who is 
so rich in precious information on the agricultural and social 
advances in Italy, tells us that Italy opened her hills and plains 
to the triumphal entrance to the god Dionysus about 120 years 
B. C, and the cultivation of the grape has gone on uninterrui^ted- 
ly ever since. Every generation has jioured forth new cai)ital 
to enlarge its inheritance of vineyards. 

The vine was introduced into France by the conquering 
Roman legions and practically the same conditions as in Italy 
prevail there, only that a small area of the north of France does 
not produce grapes, while in Italy there is practicallx' no section 
where grapes are not grown and wine made. 

The cultivation of the vine in Germany, whicli covers a 
comparatively small acreage when compared with Italy and 
France, ccjmmenced after the death of the Roman Emperor. 
Marcus Aurelius Probus. He reigned from 27G to 282 A. I)., 
and directed much of his attention to clearing Gaul of the Ger- 
mans. For over eighteen centuries, therefore, the Germans have 
also been cultivating their hillside \'ineyards and winning fame 
with their fine white wines. 

The viticultural industry in California, on the othej- hand, 
is really only half a century old, although the Franciscan Fathers 
planted the grapevine in California shortly after their arrival 
at San Diego, in 17()!). As the other missions were established, 
small tracts were planted close around their houses of worshi}). 
The Padres guarded them jealously with high adobe walls, culti- 
vated the x'ines carefully, gathered their fruit, and made wine, 
which was used in their religious ceremonies, or consumed by 
the good Fathers, their occasional visitors and their immediate 
retainers. 

Soon after the cession of California to the United States, 
some of the new settlers, .seeing the fertility of the Mission 
grape, conceived the idea of abandoning gold hunting and en- 
gaging in the business of winemaking. Coar.se, heavy wines 
were made from the Mission grapes and when they were tasted 
by discriminating wine drinkers, it was predicted that California 
would never be able to turn out Wine that would be acceptable to 
people used to the foreign brands. 



But time has pi-oved tliat they were mistaken, for as soon 
as it became evident that the European varieties of grapes would 
thrive in California and produce wines similar to the foreign 
types the Mission vines were uprooted and today the extent of 
these grapes probably does not total more than a couple of thou- 
sand aci-es, of the 160,000 acres we have in wine grapes alone. 

However, but little advance was made toward increasing 
the area of viticulture until 1859, when, through the publication 
of vine articles in the reports of the State Agricultural Society, 
and in the newspapers, a general and widespread interest mani- 
fested itself in vine i)lanting and the area of our vineyards be- 
came greatly increased. A large proportion, however, of these 
new plantations consisted of table grape producing vines. 

In the early sixties our State Legislature sent a commission 
abroad to secure the finest varieties of grapes in Europe and 
Asia. This resulted in planting better varieties for the table, 
for the winepress and for raisin curing. But it was not until 
about 1880 that the foreign varieties of grapes were set out ex- 
tensively, for up to that time there were only a limited few who 
believed that any grapes could be as good as the old Mission va- 
riety. 

Through the persistent efforts of a few enterprising viti- 
culturists, .small quantities of wine were produced from imported 
varieties, whose character showed such superiority over those 
made from the Mission, that new faith in the future of Cali- 
fornia wines was born, and the belief si)read that under proper 
conditions, our State might some da.\- make wine of a superior 
grade, and eventually rival some of the better wines of European 
countries. 

After fifty years of patient, costly experimental work and 
the expenditures of vast sums in repairing the ravages of the 
phylloxera and Anaheim diseases, the great goal has been reached 
and today California wines are considered the equal of tho.se 
produced in France, Italy and Germany. Even abroad they ad- 
mit this, for at the International Exposition, at Turin, Italy, 
in 1911, a new brand of California champagne received the 
"grand prix," the highest award which the exacting jury could 
confer. 

Another proof of the superiority of American wines is the 
test they .stood at the St. Louis World's Exposition in 1903, when 
they were placed in competition with the best of every great 
grape-growing and wine-producing nation in the world. Out of 
thirty-odd entries of wines, California alone was awarded three 
grand prizes and nineteen gold medals. In proportion to our 
entries, California received more prizes for its wines, brandies, 
vermouth and champagne than any other exhibitor at home or 



abroad. The wine jury was comprised of twent.y-one members, 
of which seventeen were foreigners. The latter included seven 
experts from France, four from Germany, and some from Italy, 
Chili, Japan and Canada. The distinguished jury, as competent 
and impartial, perhaps, as the world could supply, acknowledged 
the merits of our wines and rewarded our winemakers accord- 
ingly. The importance of their decision may be understood when 
it is realized that it took ninety-five points to win a grand prize, 
and to secure a gold medal, the product had to score an average 
of ninety points. 

At expositions in the great wine-producing centers of Eu- 
rope, we have also been able to win recognition. Gold medals 
were awarded California wines at Paris, France, in 1899; at 
Genoa, Italy, in 1892; at Lyons, France, 1894; at Bordeaux, 
France, in 189.5; and at the Paris World's Exposition, in 1900, 
when our wines carried off four gold medals, nine silver medals 
and nine bronze medals, notwithstanding that the choicest quali- 



ties were not permi 


tted t 


compete for prizes, because, as the 


Frenchmen claimed. 


the 


label 


s bore the names of French dis- 


tricts, such as Calif 


arnia 


Burgundy, Sauterne, etc. 


California has profited by 


the experience and knowledge of 


every wine nation o 


f the 


WOl" 


d and today the following varie- 


ties of grapes are us 


ed in 


the 


making of our wines: 




FOR RED WINES. 


Aleatico 






Grand Noir de la Calmette 


Alicante Bouschet 






Grenache 


Aramon 






Mataro 


Barbera 






Malbec 


Beclan 






Merlot 


Bonarda 






Meunier 


Cabernet Franc 






Mondeuse 


Cabernet Sauvignon 






Mourastel 


Canajola 






Nebiolo 


Carignan 






Petite Bouschet 


Charbono 






Petite Syrrah 


Chauche Noir 






Pineau Noir 


Chianti 






San Giovese 


Cin-saut 






St. Macaire 


Franc Pineau 






Verdot 


Freisa 






Zinfandel 


Camay 









Burger 
Chasselas 
Colombar 
Folle Blanche 
Franken Riesling 
CJray Riesling 
(]i-een Hungarian 
Gutedel 



FOR WillTF WINES. 

Joliannisberg Riesling 
Muscadelle de Bordelais 
Petite Pineau 
Sauvignon Vert 
Sauvignon Blanc 
Semi Hon 
Traminer 
Verdal 



FOR SWEET WINES. 



Burger 

Carignan 

Cataratto 

Feher Zagos 

Folle Blanche 

l'\irmint 

Jusoglia 

Malvoisie 

Mataro 

Malaga 



Mission 

Mourisco 

Muscat of various varieties 

Pedro Ximenes 

Palomino 

Trousseau 

Tokay 

Sultana 

Verdelho 

Zinfandcl 



There are two distinctive varieties of wine produced in 
CiiliCornia that have won considerable popularity throughout 
the land. One is Zinfandel, a claret type, made from the Zin- 
fandel grape, which is supposed to be of Hungarian origin, but 
on account of the carele.ss marking of the cuttings when they 
were first imported into California its actual derivation is un- 
certain. It is a grape that bears very abundantly, the berries 
being small and very closely packed together, and produces an 
agreeable light table wine, soft and smooth. 

The other wine to which I refer is, Angelica, a favorite 
with women. In reality, it is not a wine at all, — considering that 
"wine is the fermented juice of the grape" — as it is made by 
mixing about one-third (some manufacturers use less) brandy 
with two-thirds grape juice fresh from the press. 



j\ Short History 

of Champagne 


By 

MM. HOMMEL 

Of Hummel Wine Co. 

Sandusky, (). 




As Champagne is without doubt the king- of all 
beverages de luxe, it is very appropriate to give in 
the columns of "Beverages de Luxe" a short but 
authentic history of its origin and the process of jn-o- 
ducing the sinirkling wine. 

It originated in France in the small Department 
de La Champagne, hence its name, which has long since become 
a generic name and used everywhere that human brain and in- 
genuity has penetrated. The first wines made in the Depart- 
ment de La Champagne of France were still wines, and their 
first production and introduction of the vines are lost in the 
midst of antiquity, as the wines of Southern France were cele- 
brated even beff)re the Christian Era, many centuries before 
wiiies were ever made in the province of Champagne. 

The date of the first growing of grapes in Champagne was 
about 282 A. D., and their growth and production of wine in- 
creased in spite of hardship, ignorance, fire and warfare to 
great proportions, until about the sixteenth century. The in- 
dustry then being so important, a more careful study was made 
thereof, and the producers and makers began to notice a natural 
tendency of the wines of Champagne to effervesce; in fact, it 
was difficult to overcome this fact and avoid losing some entire- 
ly ; but it remained for Dom Perignon, a Benedictine Monk, 
whether by accident or diligent study, to really discover the 
]n-ocess of producing sparkling wine. This was in 1670 at Haut- 
villers. He also contrived the idea of marrying or blending 
wines of various sections and qualities in order to make a first- 
class cuvee, or blend. 

It was also Perignon who originated the flute, at that time 
the proper glass to drink it from, in order, as he said, "To watch 
the dance of the sparkling atoms." Now we have the more ap- 
propriate low, hollow-stemmed Champagne glass. , 

The reputation was soon established, and the demand for 
the sparkling class of wines of the Champagne increased by 
leaps and bounds; and as the production of the sparkling wines 
was limited entirely to the province of Champagne, and the de- 
mand spread all over Europe and the civilized world, the still 



wines became practically obsolete, and any wines cominp from 
there were generally supposed to be sparkling. Cradiially, 
however, other provinces and countries began to produce spark- 
ling wines, and became known to everybody as Champagne, 
whether made in Bordeaux or Borgougne province, or America, 
Germany, Italy or Austria. 

At the same time, the original houses were growing in size 
rapidly and continuously, and their capacities grew until now 
some of the large hou.ses of France have stocks of 11^,000,000 
bottles. Thirteen millions is easily said, but when one stops to 
realizt' what enormous space 1,000,000 bottles will retjuire, and 
then multiply it by thirteen, .same .seems almost an absurdity, 
especially when the elaborate process and long time it re(iuires 
is taken into consideration. 

We have also cellars in America with capacities of from 
500,000 to 2,000,(100, all made on the same process, and with the 
same elaborate care. None but the choicest of grapes are used, 
and only from .selected locations. When the vintage season 
arrives they are hauled to the winery, where they are pressed 
and the juice run off into large casks to ferment. So far the 
process has been very simple, but now the Chamiiagne expert 
gets in his work and intelligence, blending the various juices, so 
as to make one cuvee, or homogeneous mass, perfect in taste, 
color, acidity and bouquet. After the cuvee is made it is ready 
for bottling, where the second fermentation takes place. When 
fermented they are lowered into the cellars to cool off and ri])en. 

The ripening period usually takes two and one-half to three 
years, after which time the now Champagne can be put on the 
market if necessary, but the first-class cellars rarely attempt to 
put their brands out before four or five years. When the wine is 
bottle ripe it is put on tables "surpointe;" that is, the bottles 
are all neck down. After it has repo.sed on the tables for twenty- 
four hours the "remeuer" i)roceeds with his daily <)])eration of 
iiandling each bottle by giving it a rotary shake for two to six 
weeks, at the end of which lime the wine is sui)pos('d to be 
crystal clear, the sediment formed by fermentation having been 
worked down to the cork. 

The next operation is the disgorging or taking out the sedi- 
ment. This is done neatly, easily, and with little lo.ss of wine 
or sparkle by experienced men, and the syrup is then added. 
Before adding any .syrup the wine is tart and is called "Brut," 
meaning raw. The amount of .syrup added usually designates 
the grade thereof, under the names Sweet, Medium, Extra Dry 
or Special Dry, etc. The bottle is then recorked with a new and 
expensive finishing cork, which is fastened down by means of a 
jjronged wire, and the bottle is then ready for the packing room, 



where it is again piled up for a weeiv or so to repose and 
assimilate. 

When needed for market, each bottle is examined with 
candle light, same as candling eggs, to separate the defective 
bottles. The defective bottles are those from which the sedi- 
ment has not comjjletely disappeared, or with pieces of cork, 
etc. After this process the bottles are ready to be dressed up 
for market with a fancy cap or foil, handsome labels, and 
wraj^ped in neat tissue paper, to be cased up in cases of twelve 
l)ottles or twenty-four half bottles, and usually sell at $12.00 
and $14.00 per case, up to $22.00 and $24.00 per case. One Ohio 
firm commands the ])rice of $22.00 and $24.00 per case for one 
of their brands, and $14.00 and $1(5.00 for another. 

American Champagnes or sparkling wines are coming to 
the front very rapidly, owing to many reasons, viz: American 
push and enterprise; the American article has a natural bou- 
ciuet of its own, given it by the grape, and not added as in the 
imported article; the efferve.scense is superior, and the methods 
used are identical; and last, but not lea.st, the difference in price 
at which the two articles are sold. The imported article costs 
no more to produce than the home product, but with $9.60 duty 
added, $2.00 consular fees, $1.00 transportation, and $10.00 at 
least added by the lavish way in which they are boomed, plus 
the original cost of $9.00 per case for twenty-four half bottles, 
and the amount of $31.60 is completed, about the average cost 
of the imported article. 

The above short perusal on the production of Champagne 
covers it in general, but the fact must not be overlooked that the 
real work occuiiies a space of time of two and one-half to three 
years, and each bottle is handled from 160 to 240 times, and 
has been under the diligent care of careful supervision contin- 
ually; and the easiest and most pleasing operation is the last, 
that of popping the cork to the ceiling, and toasting all your 
friends to a long life and a merry one. 




'rhe Wines 

of France 


# 



PUODUCINC some 2,000 dillercnt varieties of wine, 
the most noted I'.randy distilled from wine, and 
\arious lii|iu'urs based on wine, i-'rance stands 
to day foremost amony the nations as a wine 
country. Its vineyards are innumerable. 
It has not attained this i)oinl of supremacy so easily, how- 
ever, as the story of the vine in France i)ictures many dillicul- 
ties and hardships, the vineyardists struggling against all man- 
ner of discouragement. In fact, throughout the entire history 
of this country, the story of wine-making is clo.sely interwoven, 
and, at some of the most critical times in its history, the part 
played by the vine was important. Vt't, strange to say, the vine 
was not native to France, but according to best authority, was 
introduced there during the sixth century, B. C. It was with 
the advent of the Christian Church, however, that the planting 
of vineyards became universal in France, and its more glorious 
history then began. Indeed, the monks are largely responsible 
for the popularity of wine drinking, making and .selling it them- 
selves, and have given to the world some of tlu' more popular 
varieties. 

But, to-day, the position of I'"rance as a wine-making coun- 
try is unquestioned, and this is one of the country's most im- 
portant Industries, and is so recognized to such an extent that 
the Government has become paternalistic in regard to it. For 
example, a law adopted December 17. 1908, established the 
boundaries of the region fi'om whose grapes the wine in'odiiced 
is alone permitted to be called ('hami)agne. 

The soil of F'rance is varied in the dill'erent sections, which 
are known as "departments," and in each of these dei)artments 
wines of entirely dilferent character are jiroduced. Those which 
are most generally and fa\orabl\- known are Champagne, Sau- 
ternes. Clarets, and Burgundies. As other articles in this book 
are devoted to Champagne, Sauternes, and Clarets, it is un 
necessary to dwell upon them at length here. The story of 
Champagne, however, bears out what has been said about the 
important part played by the Church in developing the making 
of wine in France, as it was a Benedictine Monk who invented 
Champagne, termed by the French "\'in Mousseux." There are 



five arrondissementa of tlie Department of Champagne, where 
Champagne grapes are grown : Chalons sur Marne, Eperney, 
Rheims, Sainte-Mene Hould and Vitry-le-Francois, but the right 
to the name of genuine French Champagne is now limited to 
the wine made from the grapes of Rheims and Eperney. 

In general parlance, when the wine of the Champagne dis- 
trict is referred to, the sparkling wine is meant, yet, in this 
same district, still wines are made that are claimed by some to 
be the best in France. At one time there was quite a contro- 
ver.sy as to whether the still wines fi m Champagne or Bur- 
gundy wines were the better. Of the red wines grown at 
Rheims, the two finest are the Rilly and Bouzy. 

The Sauterne district comprises a portion of the Depart- 
ment of Gironde and jiart of the Medoc, and is called in France 
the Graves. The soil here consists of .sand and gravel, mixed 
with more or less clay, so that one would hardly expect to have 
such luxuriant vines as produce the popular Sauterne wines. 
It is from another part of the Gironde, where, likewise, the soil 
would appear to be almost worthless, that the Medoc wines, or 
Clarets, as we know them, are produced. 

The most famous red wines of France ai'e those from the 
Burgundy district, and known by this name. The vines are 
grown on the Cote d' Or, which is a chain of hills averaging 
from 800 to 1,000 feet in height. For thirty miles the vineyards 
extend in one continuous row on the sides of these hills. The 
soil is of yellowish red, accounting for the name of the district, 
and Burgundy is probably the oldest wine-producing district in 
entire Europe. One authority gives his views of the best Bur- 
gundy wine in the following language : "In richness of flavor, 
and in perfume, and all the more delicate qualities of the grape, 
they unquestionably rank as the finest in the world." 

The Department of the Pyrenees Orientales is another 
where vineyards in full leaf and all their beauty may be seen 
stretching out mile after mile, both on the level land and on the 
hillsides. Here, the very drie.st and, likewise, the sweetest of 
wines are made in the same neighborhood. The dry wine, 
known as Grenache wine, which, through a peculiar process of 
manufacture, partakes more of the nature of a liqueur, is laid 
away in cellars for many years before it is said to be really fit 
for use. From the same neighborhood comes Muscat wine, 
which is very sweet, and for the first year is like a syrup, Init, 
after the second year, becomes clear and acquires the bouquet 
which has given it its reputation. Maccabeo and Malvoysie are 
two more liqueur wines made in this vicinity, and a large num- 
ber of other wines, also grown in this department, are classified 
under the name of Rousillion wines. 

According to an old narrative, on the left border of the 
Rhone, in the commune of Tain, one of the Queen's courtiers, 



in the year 1225, wishing to leave court life, built himself a 
retreat on an isolated hill. It became known as his hermitage, 
and he experimented with wine-making there with great suc- 
cess. This is where the world was given the wines that have 
since become celebrated as the Hermitage wines. The vine- 
yards, though small, produce wines of such rare excellence that 
their fame has spread wherever wine is drunk. Both red and 
white wines are made here, but the white wine is the be.st and 
the one that has ac(iuired fame. 

The wines .specifically mentioned above constitute the 
classes of the best known of the many different kinds that ai'e 
|)r(i(luced in France, but. as already stated, other beverages 
made from wine have added to the greatness of the industry in 
this country. In the year I'.WA, the art of distillation was in 
troduced in France, and, being especially adojited in the Cham- 
pagne district, re.sulted in the i)r()(luction of wine Brandy, which 
has become more known under the term of Cognac. This name 
was applied because most of the Brandy was distilled in the 
city of Cognac, in the Heijartment of Charente, but, contrary 
to .some pojudar belief, Cognac Itrandy is not distilled from 
the sparkling wine known as Champagne, but is made from 
the wines produced in the Champagne district. 

Litpieurs and ('ordials are made from wines distilled or 
blended with various herbs and plants. Here, again, the monks 
were the originators, and to them the world is indebted for the 
I)roduction of tho.se Cordials that are to-day .so popular, and 
whose manufacture has developed into a large industry. The 
art of making the different Liqueurs was closely guarded in the 
cloisters where they were originally made, and the processes 
have always been regarded as a valuable secret, as for each Cor- 
dial different roots and herbs are required, and there must be a 
minute knowledge of the preparation of them, the right cpian- 
tities to u.se, and the proper methods of distillation. The e.xact 
proce.s.ses were kept within the bounds of the cloisters, and only 
made known to the new recruits among the monks, themselves. 
This was the history of that most famous of French Liqueurs, 
Chartruese, which was originally made by the Carthusian 
Monks in their monastery near Grenoble. But, during the re- 
cent troubles of the monks, when they were ordered out of 
France, they sold their secret for an immense sum, and the 
Liqueurs such as they manufactured are now being made by a 
private com])any in France, although recently the monks have 
denied their right to the use of the name Chartruese. But 
withal, with the advance of .science and chemi.stry, most of the 
secrets of the monks in the distillation of various Litiueurs have 
become known, and these delightful beverages are now being 
manufactured equally as well by regular business concerns. 



Sauternes 


By 

ALBERT M. HIRSCHFELD 

New York 



©The Wliite Wines of P" ranee are known under 
the name of "Sauternes," and are grown in the De- 
I i)artment of the (Jironde. 
' The vineyards are situated chiefly on the left 
bank of the River (iaronne. some miles south of the 
city of Bordeaux, from whence these wines are ex- 
ported to all parts of the world. 

The favorable situation of the vineyards, which are exposed 
to the direct rays of the sun, cause the grapes to grow to a high 
degree of maturity ; and, besides this advantage, the soil is 
peculiarly suited, it being composed partly of white clay and of 
a generally sandy nature. 

Besides these natural advantages, great care is exercised 
in the cultivation of the vine plants and the manner of vintag- 
ing, which, in its method, is peculiar to this district. 

Some of the principal towns around which the best speci- 
mens of wines are obtained, and from which they derive their 
distinctive names, are: Cerons, Barsac, Fargues, Preignac, 
Sauterne, Bommes, etc.; also around the Chateaux of Yquem, 
Vigneau, Suduiraut, La Tour Blanche, Rabaud, La Passonne 
Cadillac, Grand Perrot, St. Croix du Mont, Chateau Ferrand, 
etc. The wines grown around these Chateaux are considered 
the finest specimens of /;///// -c/a.s'.s' Saiitei-ne.'^. 

The proprietors of these Chateaux bottle the finer qualities 
of good vintages in their own cellars and affix theii- own labels 
and coat-of-arms, and thus as "Chateaux Bottled Wines" give 
a degree of authenticity and of undoubted (luality, which com- 
mand high prices in every market. 

It is doubtless due to the hilly situation of the vineyards 
and the care bestowed on their cultivation that the grapes from 
which Sauternes are made are superior to many others; the 
care, also, with which they are gathered and pressed gives the 
peculiar excellence, both in flavor and aroma, for which these 
wines are famous. 

The grapes are allowed to "over-ripen," and the bunches 
form a kind of "fermentation fungus," and to this is ascribed 
the peculiar and delicious bouquet, and the exquisite bright 
golden color of the wine. 



Much time and money is thus expended on the vintapinp 
of the grapes, as every bunch has to be carefully examined, and 
unless it is found perfect in every respect, it is not used for the 
finer qualities. 

It has been cumi)uted that the average expense ol' cultiva- 
tion is from 250 to ,'500 francs per hundred (twenty-four dozen), 
it cannot, therefore, be wondered at that genuine Sauternes 
cannot be obtained as cheaply as some of the Red Wines of 
France. 

In classifying Sauternes, it is undoubtedly a fact that the 
wines of the Chateau d'Yquem, Chateau La Tour Blanche, Cha- 
teau Vigneau, Chateau Rabaud, and Chateau Suduiraut take 
the foremost rank, and, next to these in the order given, come 
the Haut Sauternes, Sauternes, Barsac and Craves. 

All Sauternes are sweet or sweetish in character, but tlu' 
excess of sweetness disappears considerably with a few years of 
"bottle age." 

As "table wines," Sauternes are eminently suitable. They 
are delicate in flavor and stimulate the appetite. In alcoholic 
strength they are far below Sherries, but they are, neverthele.ss, 
exhilarating and sustaining. 

They are especially suitable to be served with oysters and 
fish. 

In order to ])reserve their full aroma, Sauternes, and es- 
pecially the finer ciualities, should not be "iced;" a medium 
temperature will be sufficient to preserve all their character- 
istics. 

As "dessert wines" they are simply perfect. A glass or two 
of high-class "vintage" Sauterne at the end of a meal will not 
only aid digestion, but will warm the whole .system and diffuse 
a feeling of lightness and of comfort. 

From a medicinal standpoint, the white wines of France 
rank foremost. For dyspepsia they are invaluable. White 
wines contain less tannin, tartrates and iron than I'ed wines, 
but more acetic ether. Whilst containing the .same quantity of 
alcohol as the red wines, their action is more "heady" and more 
exhilarating. 

For obesity, especially, and affections of the liver, they are 
most emphatically efficacious. 

The sweeter Sauternes, Chateau La Tour Blanche, Yquem, 
Rabaud, Vigneau, etc., possessing a greater alcoholic strength, 
will be found most beneficial in cases of exhaustion, nervous 
prostration, hemorrhage, and in all cases of mental or bodily 
fatigue. 

As des.sert wines they are not only delicious, but they 
greatly aid the digestion and impart a cheerful glow to the 
system. 



For further medical evidence regarding Sautenies, I quote 
Dr. Mauriac, of Bordeaux. He say.s in one of his works: 

"The great Sauternes white wines, which are of a rela- 
tively high alcoholic strength, are both tonic and stimulating; 
consumed moderately, they are invaluable to convalescents after 
a severe illness, or when it is necessary to revive an organism 
extenuated by high fever, hemorrhage, or long fatigue. They 
are perfect as dessert wines, and one or two glasses at the end 
of a meal facilitate digestion and i)rovoke gaiety." 

In short, as a French i)oet has it : 

"Un rayon de soleil concentre dans un verre." 
Or, "A concentrated ray of sunshine in a wine glass." 




Qlarets 


By 

H. GRUENEBAUM 

Of Sonn Bros. Co. 

.Xfw York 




The poets of all generations have eulogized the 
clarets of the (lironde; even Aiisone, the famous 
poet of the fourtii ccnturx-, has idolized them in his 
lioems. 

The clarets ol' (lascognc, amongst which the 
^'^-xl^^ clarets of Bordeaux occupied a pnimimiit place, en- 
joyed, in the year i;>02, a firm rejiutalion in the London markets. 

Although, in the middle of the sixteenth century, the con- 
sumption of the clarets derived from Spain and Portugal in- 
creased to an alarming degree in the London market, yet it was 
im])ossible to dethrone the French clarets, which, through their 
ex(iuisite taste, quality and boufiuct, maintained their superi- 
ority above all others, and gradually obtained a world-wide 
reputation. A prominent Ambassador of I'rance, siteaking of 
the coining of English sovereigns in London, at that time stated 
that most of this precious metal would find its way into France 
through the enormous sales of French clarets from Gascogne; 
and we find in a manuscript given out by the Mercantile Asso- 
ciation of Bordeaux in the year 1730, that the clarets shipped 
from Bordeaux annually attained the stupendous figure of 
70,0(10 tons, princii)ally sold to Kngland, Holland, Sweden, Den- 
mark and Amei'ica. 

The production of clarets in France increa.sed to such an 
alarming degree that the venerable Minister Montesquieu in- 
duced the farmers to destroy their \ini's and turn o\ cr their 
fields to the ])roduction of wheat or other cereals. In 17S7 the 
Bureau of Commerce in Bordeaux published thiit the annual 
average crops of claret of Gironde attained tlie enormous figure 
of 200,000 tons, valued at the exor1)itant amount of .")! 0.000.000 
francs. 

Similar to the soil of Havana, particularly adajited to the 
growing of tobacco, the same can be ai)plied to the l)e])artment 
of (iironde, known under the name of ("larets of Bordeaux. 

This territory, comprising about L000,000 acres, produces 
the famous St. Estephe, St. Emilion, St. Julien, Pauillac, Sau- 
vignon, and the white wines Le Sauvignon, Le Semilion and 
Vigneau. 



Among the most known brands, let us not forget Chateau 
Margaux, Chateau Lafite, Chateau Latour, Mouton, and many 
others which have attained a world-wide reputation; and last, 
but not least, the Chateau Yquem, king of all white wines. 

Notwithstanding the fact that the wine producers and 
prominent chemists in California have done their utmost to 
imitate as nearly as possible the French clarets, it has been of 
no avail. Therefore, the French clarets will always stand at 
the zenith of fame, glory and reputation, from whence no com- 
petition will ever dethrone them. 




Sherry 




By 

CEO. C. HOWELL 

Of Samuel Sireit Co. 

New York 



f^^ Vinos de Jerez (Xerez old -style), Jerez wine, 

^^^ pronounced Hehreth, was found impossible to the 
HH| early Enprlish tongue, and was corrupted to Sherris, 
SSH afterwards Sherry, and is now known as Sherry 
^ ^ vvine. 
^^j^^j^ Nowhere t'lse can Sherry be ))i-oduce(l but in the 

white chalky soil of the hills, in a triangular district, marked by 
the cities of Jerez, Port St. Mary's, and Sanlucar, province of 
Cadiz, South Spain. Here it has been grown for centuries, al- 
though, as happened in the Bordeau.x and in other districts, 
the vineyards of the Jerez di.strict were almost entirely de- 
stroyed by Phyloxera, they have been rei)lanted to a great ex- 
tent, and are again producing exactly the same wine. When the 
vines were destroyed, the vineyard proprietors were confronted 
with a very grave situation; I'eplanting was an expensive ojjcra- 
tion; .stocks had to be .secured who.se roots would withstand the 
attack of Phyloxera, and grafts from the old vines employed. 
It was a (juestion whether the same wine would be produced. 
This has been settled .satisfactorily, but only a portion of the 
vineyards, less than one-half, have been replanted ; so that, 
where the hills ten years ago were covered with a mantle of 
green, now more than half api)ears glistening white in the hot 
sunshine. 

Some thirty years ago the old Spanish family of Sancho, 
proprietors for many years of the celebrated \'ineyard El 
t'aribe, which produces Amontillado Don Quixote, sent by re- 
quest to California cuttings from their best and most vigorous 
vines; these were grafted, and the result was in every case a 
beautiful vine, but in no ca.se was the wine similar in any way 
to Sherry. This experiment, with the more recent one of re- 
planting in Spain, goes to prove that it is soil and climate more 
than anything else which is responsible for the peculiar llavor 
and bouquet of wines from certain districts, which makes their 
superiority and renown. 

There is no .secret process, nor, as is the comuKMi belief, is 
Sherry made in a different way from that employed in making 
other wines. After the grapes are ])ressed at the vineyard 



house the juice (Mosto) is pumped into large casks, which are 
carried on bullock carts, generally at night, to the Bodegas 
(large stone overground cellars) at Jerez de la Frontera, Port 
St. Mary, or Sanlucar. Here the Mosto goes through the pro- 
cess of fermentation, where the saccharine matter is changed 
to alcohol and carbonic acid gas, the latter going free, while the 
alcoholic strength increases in the Mosto, until it reaches the 
point where it kills further fermentation, leaving some sac- 
charine unfermented, or where all the saccharine has been 
transformed. The wine is then drawn off, and is aged like other 
wines, but, unlike other wines, which are kept in dark under- 
ground cellars, the Spanish Bodegas are large stone buildings, 
with many windows and openings, giving plenty of light anti 
sun.shine and a free circulation of air. 

Sherry is now used in medicinal compounds, in combina- 
tion, more than any other wine ; but why lessen its strength- 
giving powers by combination? The fact that from the time 
the grapes are ripened on the high sunny hills until the wine is 
bottled, Sherry is always surrounded by pure air and sunshine, 
should be considered by the medical iirofession, and the 
strengthening powers of old Amontillado should be more widely 
known and appreciated. The longevity of the inhabitants of 
Andalucia is well known. There is an old tale of an Archbishop 
of Seville who lived to be one hundred and twenty-five years old, 
and always drank half a bottle of Amontillado at dinner; but 
on the days he was not feeling just I'ight, he braced up with two 
bottles. 

There are a number of varieties of white grajies used in 
making Sherry, and con.sequently a number of ditt'erent styles 
of Sherry ; but Sherry is classified under two grand divisions : 
Plnos and Jerezanos. 

Finos are the pale, Jerezanos the darker wines. Finos are 
sub-divided into Vino de Pasto, Palo Cortado, Palma and Anion 
tillado. Jerezanos are sub-divided into I. Raya, II. Raya. III. 
Raya. I. Raya's are aged and become Oloroso iir Amoroso. II. 
Raya's and III. Raya's are either mixed with the cheap wines of 
the plains or distilled. 

This classification is made by the Almacenista (the mer- 
chant who buys from the grower and ages Sherry, keeping the 
vintages separate as Anadas), or by his Cai)ataz (head cellar 
man), and it must be made correctly, or the consequent loss 
may be enormous. The difficulty can be somewhat imagined 
when one understands that two Bodega Butts, lying side be- 
side, containing wines from the same vintage, will develop dif- 
ferently; one will be Fino, the other Jerezano. This phenomenon 
cannot be explained, but it is a fact. 



Althuugh the vineyard i)roprieturs, almost wilhout excep- 
tion, were, and still are, Spaniards, the shipping of the wines 
was entirely in the hands of Englishmen who had settled in 
Spain, and for that reason, shipping values are expressed in 
pounds sterling; but conditions are changing, and the vineyard 
proprietors are gradually becoming shippers of their own wines. 

Taking the Sherry shippers and their Capitaces as a class, 
ten per cent, are moderate drinkers or abstainers; ninety per 
cent, are good, generous drinkers; the death rate shows ten per 
cent, die under .seventy, ninety per cent, live to be seventy or 
over, and of the latter, fifteen per cent, reach the ripe old age 
(if ninety years. From this one can understand why Sherry is 
named in Anchilucia "la leche de los viejos" — the milk for the 
aged. 

That Shei'ry is becoming more popular as a beverage here 
in the United States can be seen by the increase in the number of 
gallons imported each year, as shown l)y I'nited States customs 
statistics. This is due, in a great measure, to the fact that 
Amontillado bottled in Si)ain has been introduced to the Ameri- 
can consumer at the clubs, at the hotel bars, and at the cafes 
in its native purity. A glass of Amontillado, with or without 
bitters, is beginning to appeal to the American taste as an ap- 
petizer. At dinner Amontillado is served with the soup, the 
glasses are refilled during the (ish cour.se, and frequently are 
only removed when the roast appears. In the kitchen, the chef, 
when prei)aring shellfish or terrapin, would be at a lo.ss without 
Sherry. In fact, for the educated taste, there is no wine like 
Sherry, and, of all wines, SheiTv is most useful for all purpo.ses. 



Port Wine 


# 



HIS magnificent wine is made in the celebrated vine- 

O yards of the Upper Douro, a mountainous region 
in the north of Portugal, some sixty miles up the 
River Douro from Oporto. Here, on the slopes of 
the hills, the vines are grown and the wine is 
made, and, when ready, sent down the river by boat, or by rail, 
to mature in the "lodges" or stores of the wine shippers at Villa 
Nova de Gaia, Oporto. 

Great Britain is by far the largest consumer of Port Wine, 
and was in the past practically the only consumer. Perhaps 
the favorite type of Port is still the vintage Wine, i. e., a wine 
shipped two or three years after it is made, and then matured 
in bottles many years; and this to an Englishman of the old 
school is "real Port." P"or the last twenty years, however. 
Tawny Ports have become increasingly popular, largely owing 
to the recommendation of the medical profession, who consider 
that this type of wine is more digestible and less provocative of 
gout. "Tawny Port" is a Port Wine which has been matured in 
the cask for many years and has lost color, i. e., become 
"Tawny," and is in flavor and body quite distinct from a wine 
matured in bottle. A large quantity of Port is consumed in 
Russia, Germany, Scandinavia and Brazil. In Russia "White 
Port" (made from white grapes) is very popular, while in 
Germany and Scandinavia the taste runs to Tawny Wines. 
Brazil also consumes a fair quantity, but it is of a very light 
type, and is not shipped there by the English houses. 

In the United States of America there is a growing demand 
for Port, especially for the tine Tawny Wines. There is very 
little doubt that this tyije of wine will steadily grow in favor 
in the United States. 



Italian 

Wines 




liii 

CUIliO KOSSATI 

W'iiw Expert 

III ihi' Riif/iil Dcparlmcnl 

of Aijru'ultun' <tf Italij 



/^(K^^^ The Ki"i]>''vine lias nourished in Italy from 

J^^^^H^ the remotest aiitiquit\-. (lie name of Ooiotriu 
/■'^fl^Hj Iclhis, or land of wine, given to it by ancient 
S J^^^V poets, attesting the pre-eminence already attained 
^T^M^BP^ by the peninsula in this line of production from 
^<^^^^ the earliest times. 

Nowhere else, perhaps, has the i)roduct of the grape played 
such an important part in national life as in ancient Rome and 
Greece; in art as in literature, in religion as in politics. 

No other country, perhaps, as Italy, owing to its orograph- 
ical configuration and the notable dill'erences in climate and 
soil of its various sections, shows such a varied production of 
wines, from the light wines of the North to the generous vint- 
ages of the South. The gamut of quality is probably unparal- 
leled. There are wines which seem to reflect the character of 
the races by whom they are produced. For example: The 
Barolo of Piedmont possesses those robust and austere qualities 
which mark the Piedmontese people who make it ; the Chianti 
is gentle, graceful and vivacious, like the Tu.scan people; the 
Lachrima Christi is warm and ardent, as Neapolitans are; the 
Marsala, .strong and generous, as the inhabitants of Sicily. 

A comprehensive review of even the i)rincipal types of wine 
produced in Italy cannot adequately be contained within the 
limits of a brief article. Put, making virtue of necessity, and 
starting from the North of the Peninsula, we find, first, Pied- 
mont, a hilly province, in climate and soil well adapted to wine 
growing. Table wines form the largest and most important 
part of its production, of which the finest brands are the Gatti- 
nara, (Ihemme, Rarolo, Parbaresco, Net)biolo, Parbera, Grigno- 
lino, and Freisa. All these are dry wines, which jiosses a good 
bou(iuet and tonic iiualities. 

"Rarolo," says Professor Mosso, "is a beverage which pro- 
duces physiological effects even before you take it." Its color 
is garnet, its bouciuet ethereal, its flavor full, lasting and aro- 
matic. Although it matures in five or six years, .some prefer it 
ten years old. It is generally seiwed in a tiasket, like Ilurgundy, 
to show its age and preserve its crust. 



After "having washed our lips with this illustrious wine," 
we may sample Nebbiolo, which is preferred by many on account 
of its fruity flavor and flower-like boutiuet. It is also prepared 
in a sparkling condition, and a very pleasant beverage is this 
red sparkling wine, especially with nuts. 

Nebbiolo, "which from the wine press comes sparkling and 
rushes in bottle and cellar to hide its young blushes," cannot, 
however, monopolize entirely our attention, for other In'ands 
are claiming their share of it, such as: Barbaresco, which is a 
red wine, round and soft, resembling Burgundy; the popular 
Barbera, much liked for its deei), ruby color, and its vigorous, 
strengthening qualities; and the aristocratic strawberry-colored 
(irignolino, an idea! table wine, the latter the favorite of the 
late Archbishop F^'ranzoni of Turin. 

Sparkling Moscato of Asti or C'anelli, produced in what is 
probalily the best-known viticultural district of I'iedmont, is 
considered one of the best and most typical of Italian sparkling 
wines. It has been called "a lad\'s wine" because "it is sweet." 
Remarkable for its bouiiuet, which stands somewhat between that 
of the musk and the scent of the rose, it has a slight alcoholic 
strength, so that it can be used safel\' even by the gentle sex, 
and is an exhilarating beverage. 

Lombardy produces less wine than Piedmont, the culture of 
the grape being confined mainly to the sub-Alpine or Alpine 
district, while the plains are chiefly devoted to the dairy and 
silk industries. What little wine is grown in Lombardy is, how- 
ever, of good (luality; the l)est being the wmes of Valtellina, the 
Rhaetia of the Latins, a province as celebrated to-day for its 
vintages as it was in ancient times. They are characterized by a 
beautiful strawberrv' color, lightness, delicacy of bouquet, clean- 
liness, and nuttiness of flaxor, being am(jng Italian wines those 
which approach the most, the grand vintage of the Medoc. 

On the western border of the Venetian province, not far 
from that romantic city of Verona, is grown another of the best 
wines of Italy, viz. : The Valpolicella, a table wine, ruby in 
color, of moderate strength, clean and palatable, developing with 
age a delicate, violet-like bouiiuet. Somewhat resembling Bur- 
gundy, it has, however, a certain tendency to sparkle, a quality 
this, that has been lately utilized in prejjaring of this tyi)e a 
sparkling variety, which finds considerable favor among con- 
sumers in this country. 

The allurements of Stecchetti's poetry are not necessary to 
initiate the traveller into the delightful "soles of Venice and wine 
of Conegliano," another of the celebrated Venetian vintages, 
and probably, the most popular sparkling wine of Italy, for the 
latter speaks for itself, once you have gotten well acciuainted 
with it. 



As we proceed further through the Po Valley, skirting the 
hills located at the Toot of the Appenines, where our attention 
is attracted by the artistic manner in which the grapevine is 
trained, in garlands and festoons from tree to tree, giving the 
country a picturesque and festive appearance, we are not sur- 
prised to find sj'nthesized all these natural beauties, and, I should 
say, the very bountif ulness of the Aemilian district in the famous 
Lambrusco wine, produced near Modena, a red, sparkling wine, 
of violet-like bouquet, somewhat similar to Nebbiolo, but more 
tasty and not quite so fruity. 

In the infinite gamut of wines, which gladden the heart of 
man, Chianti, this most popular and most representative of 
Italian wines, represents a type entirely of its own, well defined 
and well established. 

Elegantly, nay coquettishly, gotten up in tho.se familiar, 
neatly-trimmed flasks, adorned with the national colors of Italy, 
Chianti is essentially a joyous and vivacious wine, the prototype 
of the red wines of Tuscany, characterized by the brightness 
and vivacity of their ruby color, the vinosity of their bouquet, 
the moderateness of their alcoholic strength (just sufficient to 
move the brain without impairing it), by the cleanliness, smooth- 
ness and gentleness of their tlavor, and, above all, by that quality 
which the Tuscans define as "passante," viz., easily dige.stible. 
Chianti has not the austerity nor the deep flavor of Barolo or 
(iatlinara, but has many of the soft graces of the Valpolicella 
or Valtellina, which alone, among the fine table wines of Italy, 
can, on aristocratic tables, contend with this son of ancient 
Etruria. 

Aleatico is a red. Muscadine wine, of which Henderson, the 
well-known English authority, says that "the name in some 
measure e.xpres.ses the rich quality of this wine, which has a 
brilliant purple color and a luscious aromatic flavor, without 
being cloying to the palate, as its sweetness is generally tem- 
pered with an agreeable sharpness and slight astringency. It 
is, in fact, one of the be.st .specimens of the dolce piccanti wines; 
and probably ap])roaches more than any other some of the most 
esteemed wines of the ancients." 

P^rom Tuscany, whose good wine is, as Bedi says, "Gentle- 
man," and "No headache hath he, no headache, I say, for those 
who talked with him yesterday," we step into the Orvieto dis- 
trict of Central Italy, famous for its white wines, and for being 
the home of the historical "Est-Est-E.st Wine," which robbed 
Germany of one of its abbots, the bibulous Johann Fugger. 

The celebrated wines of Naples come from the slopes of 
fiery Mount Vesuvius, where it would seem almost parado.xical 
that the vine should flourish and yield such excellent products 



as it does, and from the hillsides of the surrounding country, in- 
cluding- the islands of the bay. 

In this fascinating viridary, eternally fertile, ancient mem- 
ories flow from the festive pergolas and harbors laden with the 
golden bunches of the Cajiri, or with the purple fruit that yields 
the Falernian, or with the aromatic grapes, from which Lach- 
ryma Christi is obtained. 

Of Lachryma Christi, which is an amber-colored wine, pos- 
sessing a pronounced and agreeable bouciuet, and a delicious, 
fruity flavor of its own, Henry Vizetelly, a competent English 
authority, in his well-known book, "The Wines of the World," 
states: "At the head of South Italian wines, one unquestionably 
has to place the far-famed Lachryma C^nnsti, the product of the 
loose volcanic soil of Mount Vesuvius, and an exceedingly luscious 
wine, of refreshing flavor." 

A superior semi-dry, or dry, sparkling variety of Lachryma 
Christi, has lately been produced, which combines the intrinsic 
merits of this wine with the exhilarating qualties of a sparkling 
wine, and also a red variety is known, nljtained from the Lach- 
ryma grape. 

No brand, ancient or mndern, has enjoyed such enduring 
or extensive celebrity as Falernian. The Faleruian of antiquity 
came from Mount Massico, and its modern uamesake is pro- 
duced in the hilly volcanic district extending l'r(im Pozzuoli to 
Cunia. It is prepared from grapes tlial are allowed to remain 
on the vines until late in the fall ami gathered when overrijie, tiie 
juice being consecpiently very rich. 

Of Falernian, to-da\', two \arieties are jn'oduced : One red, 
endowed with great bouijuet, generous strength, full Ijody, deli- 
cate, velvety flavor; another, golden white, generous, richly 
flavored, with an aromatic boucjuet of its own. 

White Capri is a refreshing, delicate, fi-agrant, sub-acid- 
ulous wine, of a pale, primrose color, I'esembling in its charac- 
teristics the Chablis of Burgundy. Red Capri is a generous 
fragrant, ruliy-colored wine, with greater body than the white, 
velvety to the taste, and to l)e taken with I'oast meat. 

The South of Italy, with its generous vintages, supplies 
legion of well-known brands, such as the sweet Muscat of Trani, 
the Malmsey of Lipari, the aromatic and strongly-.scented dessert 
wines of Calabria (Zagarese and Gerace), and the robust, heavy- 
bodied, red wines of Bari, Barletta, Lecce and Galli])oli. 

Through the delicious perfume of orange blossoms comes to 
us the fame of the celebrated wines of Sicily, where the feast 
of the son of Jupiter and Semele is a contimious one, finding its 
flow in the Muscat of Syracuse, suggestive of the honey of Mount 
Ibla, in its nectareous confrere of Segesta, in the ratlier strong, 
but highly fragrant, Albanello and Naccarella, in the Nelsonian 



vintaj^es of the Duchy of Ilronte, supplied lo the English court, 
in the generous vintages of the Aetna, and last, but not least, 
in the well-known Mai'sala wine. 

Of all Italian wines, Marsala is, perhaps, the best known 
among the English-speaking race. It is, undoubtedly, the best 
of the many dessert wines for which Italy enjoys a world-wide 
reputation. 

Marsala is a wine that resembles Sheriy. hut, as a rule, 
richer in body, as in its |)n|)aiati()ii a certain amount of must 
from red grapes is used. It has a iiighly develoi)ed bou(iuet, 
and is entirely free of acidity to the taste, which is mellow and 
oily. Like Sherry and Port, Marsala is a fortified wine, although 
there are some ciualitie.s. such as the Virgin, which do not re- 
ceive any addition of brandy at all. 

Malm.sey, or Malvasia, is a white, .sweet, dessert wine, rather 
alcoholic, with lu.scious flavor, resembling Madeira. 

Of the Syracusan Muscat, as well as of that of Segesta, we 
may say with ('ari)ene that "it has a brilliant golden color, a 
most gracious and not excessi\e fragrance, an e.xiiuisite, honey- 
like flavor, that tills the mouth with a harmonious ensemble of 
delicious sensations, which the palate can jjerceive, but no pen 
adequately de.scribe." 

Our re\iew of Sicili;in wines wouhl not be complete without 
nn'ntioning two or thi\'e otlii'r well-known brands, viz: Coi'vo, 
a white t;ible wine, resembling Sauterne. and possessing a beau- 
tiful amber color, boutpiet and aroma t\pically Southern, a clean, 
generous, silky taste, warming to the system. Generous in 
flavor, without being heady, it combines body with finesse, (jual- 
ity with reasonable ]irice. 

Castel Calatubbo, from the vineyards of Prince Pape di 
\'aldina, is also a wine of the Sauterne type, although somewhat 
dryer and a trifle more generf)us. 

"Vin de Zucco," grown at N'illa Crazia. a property of the 
Orleans family, in the province of Palermo, is another famous 
Sicilian growth. This wine, obtained with the greatest care, 
stands between a Sauterne and a Sherry wine, and is ideal either 
as a dessert or as a "\'in de lu.xe." 



Italian 

Vermouth 


By 
CESARE CONTI 

I'lVsUlcul Itulo-American Stores 
New Voik 




Italian \'erm(iiith is uiuloubtedly the best known 
and most laryely consumed vinous liiiuor used in the 
preparation of mixed drinks. 

Witli this iiquoi- is so identilied tlie city of 
Turin, \\here it is chiefly jjrepared, that its name has 
become familiar as tlie home of Vermouth jkii cr- 

CI'IIcilCC. 

Vermouth is, practically, a good white wine, chiefly Muscat, 
aromatized with the addition of the extract from certain aro- 
matic herbs, fortified with i)ure wine spirits to a strength vary- 
ing from fifteen to se\'enteen \wy cent, by xolume, sweetened 
with pure sugar, so as to bring its saccharimetric contents at 
from twelve to eighteen per cent. 

It derives its name, of Teutonic origin, from the word 
"Wermut," which stands in the (Jerman language for the Eng- 
lish "wormwood," one of the aromatic herbs which is more or 
less conspicuous in all the I'ormulas for its preparation. 

There are many other herbs and spices entering into the 
comitosition of the extract added to wine in the preparation of 
Vermouth, which vary according to formula. Of these, there 
are as many, we might say, as lea\'es in Vallombrosa, each maker 
having his own particular formula, which is naturally guarded 
as a trade secret. 

Although wormwood figures in all formulas, it must be 
noted that the parts of the plant used are not the leaves, nor the 
stems, which contain the essential oil of wormwood or absinthol, 
but the flowers, or better, the inflorescences which contain, in- 
stead of the essential oil, an entirely unobjectionable aromatic 
principle, known as absinthine. recognized by the pharmacopcea 
as a useful tonic. 

The custom of infusing aromatic ingredients into wine, in 
order to enhance its hygienic xalue. dates from the remotest 
times. 

Mention is made of such wines by Pliny, and Cicero alludes 
to an "alixiiitlndtiini riunm," which must have been something 
on the lines of Vermouth, but of course, not so improved and 
harmonious in its composition as the article of the present day. 



Vermouth wine is a liquor of a rather deep golden color, of 
absolute clearness, with a pronounced boutiuet of aromatic 
herbs and spices, skillfully combined so as to obtain an homo- 
geneous ensemble, with a sweet flavor, endinjj in an agreeable 
aromatic and tonic-slight bitterness. ILsed moderately, it has a 
beneficial influence on the organism, in stimulating the appetite 
and toning the action of weak stomachs. 

The first maker of Vermouth in Tui-iii was a pastry cook 
and liquor retailer, having his store under the Portici di Piazza 
Castello, who sold his customers the Muscatel wine of Piedmont, 
in which he had infused some of tiie herbs that are identified 
with the preparation of this liquor. 

From the outset it met with the favor of the consumers, 
and the demand soon grew to such size to require the prepara 
tion on a lai'ge scale, thus bringing into existence several estab- 
lishments, that quickly attained commercial importance. 

These supply both to a consideral)le home demand and to 
an ever-increasing export trade, showing that foreign countries 
alone require somewhat in the neighborhood of ] 73,672,000 bot- 
tles, besides .540,600 gallons, of this vinous liquor, of which the 
United States receives per year about 43,056,000 bottles and 
about 65,000 gallons. 

There are to-day, in Turin and neighborhood, about a dozen 
first-class establishments engaged in this industry, some of them 
with plants that are small towns in themselves, where many 
thousands of workmen find remunerative employment. 

The demand for this Italian .specialty in the United States 
has increased wonderfully within the last twenty years, viz., 
from about 50,000 ca.ses in the early nineties, to a present yearly 
average of over 150,000 cases. 

Vermouth wine is drunk in Italy and in most foreign coun- 
tries straight, as an appetizer, in the same way as in this coun- 
try the cocktail is taken before dinner. 

In the United States it is generally used in the preparation 
of mixed drinks, although foreign consumers drink it plain. 

Vermouth is the genius of the cocktail, being the ingredient 
that, either in the Martini or the Manhattan, imparts to it the 
characteristic feature of the drink. 

There is no doubt that the future has in store for this ar- 
ticle as great prospects as the past has recorded successes, and 
that, as consumers in this country become more familiar with 
the use of Vermouth as a beverage to be drunk plain, which en- 
ables them to better appreciate quality, further development of 
its importation will be realized, especially in those brands which 
can challenge in the matter of excellence. 



Qn German 

Wines 


By 

PHILIP HOLLENBACH 

Pics. Phil. Hollcnhach Co. 

Lmiisiille. Ky. 




To know how to drink wine belongs only to a 
cultivated taste; to know how to tempt guests to 
indulge in it with i)leasure belongs only to Ihe 
host gifted with rare tact and artistic discrimina- 
tion. 

A painting from the liand of a master must 
be placed in a favorable light and with appropriate surround- 
ings to set off its excellence; the most beautiful woman despises 
not the act of enhancing her charms by harmoninus auxiliaries 
or by judicious contrasts. 

Since time immemorial the poets of all nations ha\'e been 
inspired to sing the fame of (lerman wine. The old bards knew 
full well the delicious bringer of heaxenly bliss to the poor 
earth-chained being known as the species "homo sapiens." 

One of our greatest jjoets, Henry VVadsworth Longfellow, 
sings of the vintage of 1811, which he found in a convent cellar, 
thus : 

"And whenever a goblet thereof I th-ain, 
The old rhyme keeps running in my brain : 
At Bacharach on the Rhine, 

At Hochheim on the Main, 
And at Wurzburg on the Stein, 

Grow the three best kinds of wine." 

Mathias Claudius, the renowned Gei'man poet, says: 

"The Rhine, the Rhine — there grow the gay plantations! 
hallowed be the Rhine ! 
Upon his banks are brewed the rich potations 
Of this consoling wine." 

The Rivers Rhine, Moselle, Neckar, Ahr, Main, Nahe, are 
bordered with \'ineyards, whence the golden juice of the grapes 
comes to enjoy the heart of man. 

Pure wine is a tonic — nature's tonic. Its low percentage 
of alcohol renders it at once the most expedient and the most 
wholesome drink that can be used. It is a gift of Nature — the 
Great Creator. But, alas! not every year that rolls by does 
bring us this delicious fluid. 



The quality, as well as quantity, of wine differs to a great 
extent, due to meteorological ellects and to herbivorous vermin 
which tend to destroy the fruit of man's labor. 

The last century gave us some very fine vintages, amongst 
which the years 1811, 1834, 1865 and 189:^ were excellent in 
quality and quantity. The last five or six years have yielded 
hardly any crop at all, and were almo.st a total failure. 

Rich old wines were nur.sed with great skill in the (lerman 
cities by the employees of the city council and were dispensed 
in the council cellar in olden times. Yea, wine had the (luality 
of being used as currency, and fines on miscreants were impo.sed 
in such a way that the culprit had to pay one or more ohms of 
wine of a certain vintage. 

To-day almost every German city has a Rathskeller (coun- 
cil cellar) situated in the basement of the city hall, and there 
the wine, in goblets of crystal, causes often the partakers of a 
feast to sing with Mathias Claudius: 

"Drink to the Rhine I And every coming morrow 
Be mirth and music thine! 
And when we meet a child of care and sorrow. 
We'll send him to the Rhine." 




jyjixed Drinks and 

Their Ingredients 



A. E. UL'PPERMANN 

of J. 11 '. l\'uppcinian 

New York Cili/ 




In considering the subject of mixed drinks, 
it may not be out of place to dwell briefly upon 
their history, as well as upon the reasons for 
their existence and their continued popularity. 
Since time immemorial, men have sought to lend 
an added relish to food through seasoning, that 
is, through the addition of flavorings of a si)icy, aromatic, or 
piquant, nature. It was natural, therefore, that the same meth- 
ods should have been applied in the matter of beverages, as is 
witnessed by the highlx'-llavored jninches and other brews of 
our forefathers. 

A distinction siiould be drawn, howex'er, between those 
mixed drinks whicii are devised purely as thirst (luenciiers and 
which should be classified under the heading of beverages, and 
those which are commonly known as appetizers. Among the 
former are included such drinks as shandy-gaff and the various 
toddies, rickeys, punches, cobblers, juleps, etc. To some of these 
beverages it has been sought to communicate a food value, aside 
from that of the stimulant, as in the case of sherry-flip, egg-nogg, 
milk-punch, etc., foods having been introduced because of their 
value as such, rather than because of any flavor which tiiey 
might impart. 

But there is another class of mixed drinks not less impor- 
tant nor less ijojnilar than the thirst-quenchers or beverages 
just named. This class is popularly known under the name of 
appetizers, in which are comprised all of the cocktails and other 
mixed drinks that are designed particularly to increase the de- 
sire for food, that is, to promote the appetite and stimulate the 
activity of the digestive organs. 

In medicine, the therapeutic value of simple or aromatic 
bitters has long been recognized. The introduction of a bitter 
element, highly aromatic in its nature, was due to this widely 
accepted principle among medical men as well as the laity as 
to the value of aromatic bitters administered in its most delight- 
ful form, viz., the cocktail. 

The bitters act upon the saliva glands as well as upon the 
secretions of the stomach, stimulating both to a greater degree 



of activity, their effect being augmented by the aromatics, in- 
cluding the alcohol. The French have long recognized the value 
of the bitter element in their celebrated tonic wines, which gen- 
erally contain cinchona or other barks of a similar nature. Nux 
vomica, for instance, a powerful stomachic, is inten.sely bitter. 

It is true that an appetizer or cocktail may al.so be taken 
as bracer or to counteract mental depression or temporary 
melancholia, the aromatics, which are its most striking constit- 
uents, producing in such cases a similar ef!ect to that of .spirits 
of ammonia. So true is this assertion that many connois.seurs, 
in order to obtain a maximum bracing effect, prefer to use a 
highly aromatic bitters, such as Ango.stura, without the admix- 
ture of any liquor. In the.se ca.ses a pony glass is the proper 
quantity. 

It is evident, llifn, that the u.se of bitters gave rise to the 
introduction of the appetizer, or cocktail, for, without the bitter 
ingredient, these drinks would not serve their purpose as appe- 
tizers. It is also apparent that in order to produce the desired 
effect the bitters should be of a highly aromatic character, al- 
though bitters flavored only with orange peel, which are com- 
paratively only slightly aromatic, are also extensively used, but 
mainly in conjunction with such highly aromatic bitters as 
those of Dr. Siegert, invented at the town of Angostura in the 
early part of the la.st century. Various opinions are held as 
to the composition of the original cocktail, although it is gen- 
erally conceded that gin and Angostura preceded sherry and 
Angostura as an appetizer, the former reaching its greatest 
popularity in America, and the latter in England. The so-called 
old-fa.shioned cocktail, consisting of a loaf of sugar steeped in 
a teaspoonful of bitters added to rye whisky, was undoubtedly 
antedated, at least in this country, by the old-fashioned appe- 
tizer, gin and bitters. 

As it is a well-known principle that the addition of sugar 
to alcoholic drinks, or even to those which are only slightly al- 
coholic, adds materially to their exhilarating effect, so in the 
cocktail, if it is desired to heighten the subtlety of the mixture, 
the bitter taste should always be modified by the addition of 
sweetening. In the same way the communication of a slightly 
acid characteristic, as by a couple of dashes of lemon juice, will 
improve certain, although by no means all, appetizers. It is by 
the nice balancing of these various elements that the true artist 
may be recognized. 

There is a demand for appetizers that are only slightly 
aromatic and exclusively bitter, such as the dry Martini, but the 
effect in these cases is almost entirely one-sided, the bitter char- 



actei'istic being accentuated to tlie exclusion somewhat largely 
of the aromatic, and completely of the slightly acid and sweet 
constituents. The Martini cocktail evidently was the result of 
an abortive attempt to render the flavor of gin palatable to those 
to whom it is naturally repugnant, the delicate flavor of the 
French Vermouth being inadequate to perform the task imposed 
upon it. An attempt to remedy this defect was made by intro- 
ducing an equal proportion of Italian Vermouth, thus giving 
rise to the Bronx cocktail; but, generally speaking, French and 
Italian Vei'mouths constitute an inadvisable mixture, unless a 
highly aromatic bitters is used as a genial arbitrator in the con- 
test between the two opposing ingredients. The combination of 
Italian Vermouth with gin is always a happy one, the flavor 
of the former easily taking first place in the mixture, but a lib- 
eral use of Angostura, as in the popular Barry cocktail, is in- 
evitable. The addition of five drops of creme de menthe and a 
piece of twisted lemon peel makes this drink as delicious as any 
that can be offered to the most exacting epicure. 

In those mixed drinks which have been classified as simply 
beverages or thirst-quenchers, the bitter and aromatic principles 
should not be overlooked, for nothing will lend such a delicious 
flavor as a highly aromatic ingredient to champagne, claret and 
rhinewine cups or ininches. On the other hand, this constituent 
should be sparingly used with the sweet wines of Spain, such 
as port, sweet maderia, Lagrima Christa, and others. Angos- 
tura, however, may be freely used with claret, to which it lends 
a substantial body, such as is found in old burgundy. In hot 
drinks, such as hot spiced rum and hot punches, the aromatlcs 
should be not too lilierally used, as these volatile constituents 
are rapidly vaporized by the heat, and the flavor is thereby 
temporarily intensified. It is particularly imperative, therefore, 
that hot drinks should not be allowed to grow cold or to be re- 
heated. 

It is almost superflous to say that all mixed drinlvs, whether 
hot or cold, should be served as soon as possible after mixing, 
for it is necessary that the constituents should not be allowed 
to blend. The flavor of each ingredient should stand out promi- 
nently and play with as much vigor as possible the part assigned 
to it. This cannot be the case if the mixture is allowed to stand 
so as to become stale, even if bottled. 



Jljaking ''Hand-made " 
Sour Mash 


CEO. r. niETERLE 

I'was. Unitm Distilling Cn. 
Cincinnali. O. 



^^^^^^ A typical "Sour Mash" Whiskey was best made 

^Q -«»^« amid back-woods surroundings, where i^rimitive 
»> <i^^A "i^'^'i'xi'^' "1*^1 style machinei'y and back-woods treat- 
^^ J^^i^^K nient ])r(iduced a nectar "fit for the K"d"^-" Mere 
^^1^*^^ modern invention and chemical yeasting did not 
^^^^^ \ie with each other to produce the hiKhest possible 
yield on each bushel oT grain mashed, but simi)ly to get out of 
the corn, rye and barley malt used, the "cream of the cream," 
and the distiller was satisfied to present it as God's noblest gift 
to man, and to the world at large. He, nor I, would think of 
saying a word of ai)()logy in defense of this kind of goods, "lie- 
gad ! 11 needs no apology. And sah, — the drink that was good 
enough for Daniel Boone is good enough for you, sah." It has 
never been beat since squirrel-cap, backwoods-pioneer Daniel 
Boone first made this "nectar of the woods" in the Blue Cra.ss 
regions of Kentucky, when woods and Indians seem to have 
been the only things to enjoy the i)ictui"es(iueness of this grand 
old State, "Kentucky." 

It has been some years since I made a \isit to one of these 
old, back-woods distilleries. Six hours by train landed me in the 
county seat of one of the best known whiskey counties of Ken- 
tucky — 11 o'clock at night, a coinmercial traveler — and I fol- 
lowed the light of a colored jtorter through the dismal darkness 
of the town and into the hotel. The kerosene oil lamp burned 
in the oflice, the only sign of life about the place. 

A vn\) on the countei' brought out the landlord in dislial)ill('. 
rubbing his eyes ;ind mentally damning the latecomer. He 
turnetl us into a general sleeping room, (ilad to get a bed, we 
turned in, tired, woi-n-out. and slejit the sleep of the just. Next 
morning brought a breakfast of bacon and eggs, hot rolls and 
coffee. 

Through the nKiniiiig dew the tri]) to the distillery was made 
on horseback ; first over good i)ikes lined with stone-laid fences 
encircling fields of wheat, corn, hemp. Then into a lane which 
led over and across, back and recrossing so many times, that it 
.soon developed that this road led through and along the creek, 
because its rocky bed was better navigating than a ride or drive 
over the soft loam of the muddy road. 



Never in my life did I think, that a prosaic salesman, with 
whom "orders" were first consideration, and "blowings-up" 
from house the last consideration, could be moved, much less 
carried away by romantic scenery. I admit that there must 
have been something I did not understand, that made me pause, 
reflect, think. 

Below, the babbling brook, trickling with its crystal clear 
water from rock-ledge to rock-ledge, vv'inding in and out of 
green trees and underbrush above, high hills (mountains) cov- 
ered with pine trees, over which hung white silvery clouds, like 
a veil protecting the pines against the rising sun's rays, beating 
down upon the mountain slope. And as the sun's rays became 
more direct and warmer, the misty cloud-like veil disappeared, 
leaving instead an equally beautiful panorama in the many-shaded 
green of the mountain side. My pen fails me, and I can not 
make a word-picture that will give the awe-inspiring feeling that 
creeps into your soul when you meet Nature in all its natural 
beauty. Did you ever catch a shiver or feeling mixed of awe and 
delight run through your veins when, "Der Liebe Hergott (ieht 
Pureh Den Wald Leise Nach Seiner VVeise" is sung. That comes 
near it in my limited ajipreciation of music. 

The .iourney ends at tlie forks or where three creeks meet, 
and at which point you first see the rustic bridge, which is no 
more or less than a large tree felled across the creek, branches 
trimmed off, and furnishes the distiller and his men a crossing 
from house to distillery. 

The distillery is in perfect keeping with its surroundings. 
Built at the beginning of the nineteenth century, it looks as if 
it stands today with little or no repairs being "wasted" on it 
since; the shingles are covered with moss, and it certainly is 
the "mill in the forest." 

The water is led through pipes from a large sj^ring on the 
mountain side, some 2,500 feet — taking it from there because 
of the never-failing supply of the spring, and because it is as 
clear as crystal and never more than 56 Fahrenheit temperature, 
notwith.standing the fact that it contains alkali or is "hard," it 
is used for mash, boiler and general use around the distillery. 

The corn is grown arountl the immetiiate neighborhood, but 
often when crops f;iil, these distillers must get corn from other 
States. 

The rye comes from the Northwest, principally Wisconsin, 
and barley malt from Minnesota, ])riiu-ipaily malted in Milwau- 
kee or Chicago. 

The grain is ground by the old-fashioned method, two burr 
stones, often re-cut, and so arranged that one stone revolves 
over the other, crushing and grinding the grain between them. 



The corn-meal is put. one bushel into an open barrel-tub and 
thoroughly scalded with hot water, but most frequently hot 
slop. 

The stirring is done by a darkey with a hand-rake, and then 
the barrel is set aside, allowed to rest for 24 hours. After this 
time, it has the consistency of mush. It is not watery, nor is 
it hard, but simply mush. 

The darkey again comes with his hand-rake, and breaks 
up this mush and throws it into the large fermenters. It is 
thinned down liy adding hot water, but more frequently strained 
slop, so that the final contents of the fermenters is about one 
barrel of water to one bushel of grain. The required propor- 
tion of small grain (rye and barley malt) is added during the 
process of breaking up the "mush" and the fei-mentation is 
started by skimming off sufficient quantity fi-om the top of the 
fermenters during the 72 houi's that they are jjcrmitted to fer- 
ment or work. 

After 72 hours (or iXJ hours after first mashing) the fer- 
menters become quiet. The starch in the corn has been turned 
into Beer. It is sour, like beer, and ta.stes not unlike beer. This 
is then pumped into a wooden three-chamber still, and the beer 
is distilled into whiskey. This pi'ocess separates the alcohol 
(whiskey) from the mash, leaving spent slop behind. 

The whi.skey finds its way to a second distillation in a "cop- 
per doubler" heated over a wood fire. And the di.stillation is so 
controlled that it boils over and runs into a cistern room at the 
bonded warehouse into a tub, or copper tank at 100 or 101 proof, 
so that the distiller can (ill it into barrels at this proof without 
reducing with distilled water. A good test of quality being 
that this whiskey as it runs into the cistern room is sweet, 
pleasant to taste and smell, and if a distiller takes a pride in 
his product, he will call it some endearing name — "sugar-loaf," 
etc. 

To go back, the spent slop is separated by settling into a 
tub or by straining process, so that the thick is fed to cattle and 
the thin is used for mashing and tilling in the fermenters. 

All methods of handling are primitive. Grain is liauled 
miles up the creek road we have just admired. 

Whiskey, when unbonded, goes back the same way. Coal, 
which is now used in part of manufacture, comes in same way, 
but none of these "old-fashioned, hand-made" distillers would 
think of using coal under the copper doubler. The evenness 
of heat, perhaps the aroma of burnt char of wood, adds to the 
flavor. Some of these thoughts may be far-fetched, but the 
facts are nevertheless true. 



The bonded warehouses are the same as at any other dis- 
tillery. The old stone warehouses are rapidly giving way to 
modern rack warehouses. 

Today no connoisseur will believe any whiskey is properly 
matured unless maturity is evidenced by an increase in proof 
over and above the proof at which the whiskey was originally 
entered into bond. And most distillers of sour-mash whiskies 
heat their warehouses in extreme cold weather. To hold tem- 
perature of warehouses too high, is also disadvantageous, as it 
deprives whiskey of its natural development, impregnates them 
with too much tannin or tannic acid and deprives them of part 
of their bouquet. 

Sour mash whiskies are full of essential oils. Ninety-six 
iiours of fermentation, primitive methods, all add to make the 
sour mash whiskies heavier than other whiskies. They take in 
consequence longer to mature, and are hardly fit for drink until 
about four years old. From that time on they become mellower 
in taste and finer in flavor. Some of the re-imported, exported, 
sour mash whiskies are as fine as any Old Cognac Brandy, in- 
finitely more wholesome, and pure beyt)nd doubt, and doctors 
prefer to prescribe them for medicine. 

The greater part of the morning was taken in my investiga- 
tion of the distillery and warehouse; a long and loud blow on 
the horn indicated dinner, and we soon found ourselves, after 
a wash, at the hospitable table of the distiller. 

Oh, these Kentuckians are a lovely people. They are gross- 
ly slandered when people believe they do nothing but shoot and 
kill. There are rufiians any place you go, the world over, but 
for genuine true friendshi]), that is all wool and a yard wide and 
will never fade, I like to think of the friendship of some of my 
Kentucky friends. 

N. B.^ — Many drops of water have gone down the stream ; 
many drops of sand have marked the hours, the days and years, 
since the above account recorded the pleasant reflections of a de- 
lightful period. Thirty years have gone by. The author's hair, 
such as have been spared to him, are gray. Changes in business 
conditions are marked with even more distinct ditt'erences. 

From an honest eft'ort for the temperate use of liquors, to- 
day the trade is harassed by fanatical prohibition in many 
places. The lengthening of the bonded period to eight years; 
the permission granted to the distiller to bottle in bond ; have 
brought about many changes in the methods of fermentation and 
distillation, so that today primitive methods as described in the 
above account are rarely, yes, very rarely found. Notwithstand- 
ing, the eflervescence of youth, the author himself is now oper- 
ating a model distillery, employing with good results the ad- 
vanced methods and apparatus which science and experience 
have produced. 



ji'amous New 

Orleans Drinks 




By 

Slt)\EY STORY 

Of New Orleans 

Louisiana 




Speaking of beverages reminds us of those de- 
licious decoctions for which the Metropolis of the 
South (New Orleans) is famous. There are five of 
them, which for flavor and taste equal the nectar of 
the gods. They are "The Sazerac Cocktail," "Gin 
Fizz a la Ramos," "High Ball Rofignac," "Absinth 
a la Suissesse," "Peychaud Cocktail." 

Were you ever in New Orleans? If so, you must on many 
occasions found yourself following the crowd which, as it 
reaches Royal and Canal, turns off into French town and, hav- 
ing made scarcely seventy-five feet, enters a long, narrow corri- 
dor at the end of which is a large room with sand on the floor, 
and a long and handsome bar fully seventy-five feet long, before 
which stands most of the time a line of men, sometimes two 
deep. This is the famous Sazerac Saloon, known the world over 
for the art it possesses in the fabrication of the Sazerac Cock- 
tail. 

No beverage of recent years has drawn to itself more praise 
and attention than the "Ramos Gin Fizz" which is supplied to 
thousands upon thousands every year by the genial and courtly 
proprietor of the "Stag," Col. H. C. Ramos. The establishment 
is one of the finest of its kind in America and is located on 
Gi'avier Street, opposite the new St. Charles Hotel. The glories 
and reputation of this Ambrosial drink have been sung the 
world over. It's the invention of the "Chesterfieldian" Ramos, 
and men or women who have once pressed the white foaming 
"Ramos Gin F'izz" to their lips, can never forget it. It is not 
an unusual sight in the winter months, and when the Carnival 
is on in New Orleans, to find this palatial i-esort of Col. Ramos 
packed not only with men but ladies who have just left the fash- 
ionable ball-rooms or the French Opera, and are enjoying, be- 
fore returning home, a "Ramos Gin Fizz" that will take them, 
after lapsing into the arms of morpheus, into the delightful fan- 
tasies of dreamland. 

The afternoon is the fashionable time for the ladies to do 
their shopping on Canal Street in New Orleans, and wherever 
you find the ladies here you are sure to find the male gender. In 



tlie most fashionable block of this shopping boulevard is located 
the well-known confectionery establishment of Harry Schaum- 
burg. Here the gentlemen of leisure will saunter in to refresh 
themselves with a "Rofignac High Ball," which is exhilarating 
and delicious in taste and flavor. Its inventor was once the 
Mayor of New Orleans, during the Ancien regime, and tradition 
lells us that Monsieur le Maire was the most popular official the 
Crescent City ever had; for on afternoons the Mayor's office 
was always thronged with visitors desirous of both paying their 
respects to the Knightly Roflgnac and also enjoying one or two 
of his delicious "Rofignacs." 

The day's work is over in New Orleans for the average 
business man by five o'clock in the evening, and if you will cross 
Canal Street and enter by way of Bourbon Street the Old Latin 
Quarter you will unconsciously follow the crowd. Having 
walked some three blocks, you will soon notice on the corner of 
Conti and Bourbon, only one block from the old French Opera 
House (where every winter for years dating back to ante-bellum 
days the old walls have re-echoed with the music of (irand 
Opera), an old rusty-looking building of Spanish architecture. 
Most of the crowd seems to stop here — in fact they do, and, 
entering an old Spanish Courtyard, soon reach the large room 
with its low ceiling, playing fountains, and antique Spanish 
furniture, with openings on an old Spanish courtyard, where 
the flowers fill the air with intoxicating aromas. This is the 
great rendezvous for both sexes who have come here to partake 
of that refreshing and exhilarating "Suis-sesse" for which the 
Old Absinthe House has been famous for over a hundred years. 
This establishment has been in the hands of one family for a 
century. The present owner and proprietor of the "Old Ab- 
sinth House," Don Felix Ferrer, is the grandson of the Knightly 
Spaniard of the same name who landed in the Colonies, having 
come to the shores of the New World to e.scape the political 
persecutions of the Old. 

After indulging in one or two of these delicious "Suissesses" 
ditt'used by the courteous Senor Felix Ferrer, your appetite has 
been sharpened like a two-edged sword, and you will find your- 
self winding your way to the restaurant of "Madame Antoine" 
to enjoy a "Pompano au Gratin." Whilst waiting for the waiter 
to serve it you will call for a "Peychaud Cocktail," another of 
the delicious drinks of that Capital of Epicures whose motto is 
"Life is what we make it. Let us live whilst we can." "Vivimus 
dum Vivamus." 



C. p. Moorman & Co. 

Louisville, Ky. 

Distillers 




1 


As Served at 


ABSINTHE A LA S0I.SSESSE 




Ifotel :^re5liR 


One pony White Absinthe. 
One pony Anisette. 




NEW VORK, N. V. 


Dash of Orgeat Syrup. 

(Shake thoroughly and serve with 




* 


lizz water). 




THE FAJIOUS BRESIXN COCKTAIL 


RA.MOS CIN FIZZ 




One-third French Vermouth. 


Juice of two limes. 




One-third Orange Gin. 


One tablespoon powdered sugar. 




One-third Dubonnet. 


One drink Gin. 




( Frappe thoroughly, strain ami 


Five drops Orange Flower Water. 




serve in old fashioned whisky cock- 


Three drops Vanilla Extract. 




tail gkiss). 


Fill rest of glass with milk, frappe 




BRESLrN FRAPPE 


Ihoroughly and strain. 




One pony Kirsh. 

One teaspoonful powdered sugar. 


^,^/6lA^ 




One whisky glass cold strong cof- 


// 




fee. 


Maitre de Hotel, 




( Frappe thoroughly and serve in 


Formerly at St. Charles Hotel, 




high glass). 






New Orleans. 






leverages 






^cTLuxe 








Recipes for 

yttxxzb 




















iDrmks 












As Served at 


PEYCIIAIID COCKTMI. 


Tfotel dabxWac 




Use two old fashioned cocktail 


UETKOIT, .\IICU1G,\N 




tumblers. 


* 




Five drops Absinthe in one. 


••CADALOQUIAN COCKTAIL" 




Five drops Peychaud bitters in the 
other. 

Drink of Bourbon whisky and ice 
in the same glass as bitters. (Pour 


Ice. 

.\ few dashes Grenadine. 
,\ dash of bitters. 
.\ few drops of Verniouth. one 
part Irish whisky. 




from one tumbler to the other). 


Stir and strain ami add a few 
drops acid phosphate. 




BOFIGNAC inGHBALL 


EROTME COCKTAIL 

Ice. 




Five drops Peychauds Bitters. 
One slice Orange. 
One-third Dubonnet. 
Two-thirds Bourbon Whisky. 


.\ few dashes Orange Bitters. 

A few dashes Maraschino. 

Dry Gin. 

Stir and strain. 

.\dd a flavcir of Crime de Rose 




A few lumps of ice. 


wliich flows to bottom and a Creme 




(Use two old fashioned mi.xing 


de Menthe Cherry. 




glasses. In one have two drops 


' ^ ■•^ >* _rt yy 




Chartreuse, and pour from one to 
the other). 


^4 (Y^AA-eZt-^.^ 

Steward. 









C. p. Moorman & Co. 

LouisvilU'. Ky. 

Distillers 




OIvD 

|)« *■ BLENJJED ^11 



^-^^:^ 



-K D«0(j ACT. APPRO VEO JUNE ^i-' 




1 


As Served at 


As Served .\t 


Ol)e Kniversit^ (Tlub 


Ol)e !^ercautiU Club 


ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI 


ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI 
* 

brh;hton beach punch 


* 
OPAIi 


Oiie-tliirJ Anissette. 

One-third Creme de Cucao. 

Oiie-fourth Raspberry Syrup. 

One white of an egg 

Pnt in mixing glass with tine ice 
and fill up with half cieain and milk. 
ShaUe well and strain into an eight- 
ijuiice glass. 


One-half lalilespoun sugar. 

Peel of one-fourth orange. 

Fill the glass with shaved ice. 

One ji,y;ger liourbon whisky. 

Stir thoroughly ard add one dash 
of Rum. 

Ornament with slice of Orange. 

Srrve in Champa::;ne goblet with 
straws. 


IMVEKSITY CLUB SPECIAL 


.MERC .VNTILE PUNCH 


The juice of one-hah' '.!me and one- 
half lemon. 

One spoon of sugar inuggle. 

The lemon and lime put with line 
ice in a mixing glass. 

One jigger of Sloe Gin. 

Shake well and strain in a tall 
glass and fill with Cmtier Ale. 


U^e large bar gla^s. 

Il.alf tablespoon -''gar 

White of one egg. 

Juice of one lime. 

Three dashes of Gunaliue. 

Jigger of whisky 

Frappe well and strair 

Serve in small stem punch glass. 




^evera^es 
^cTLuxe 

Recipes for 














i!)rinks 




CLUB COCKTAIL 




Half lime juice 

Half pony syrup 

One jigger of Gin 

Six dashes Peychaud bitters. 

Put in mi.xing gk'ss with fine ice 


•■HOIN I».\\V(i" COCKT-\n, 

L'se large bar glass. 
Two cul;)es of ice 


and shake well. 

.Strain in a cnckta.d glass. 


Peel of one-fourth orange. 
Ilnc-fourlli jiggir Italian Ver- 


X^. ^ f^^^-^u^ 


niriuth. 

One- fourth jigger F- encii Ver- 
mouth. 


// 


M.ilf jigger Dry C.Mi. 


U 


One dash Orange P.i-irs. 


Head Bartender. 


One dash Angostura Bitters. 
Stir well. str;iin and iipieeze piece 




of lemon pnd on t(-|i- 
Serve in Cocklai' gla^s. 


A New Cocktail 


BISLERI COCKTAIL 


/^/? /) 


One part of Bisleri's titters (Ferro 
China Bisleri). 

Two parts Italian Vermouth. 

Ice, shake, strain and serve in 
cocktail glass, adding oil of Orange 
Peel. 


Steward. 


1 



W'riifht & Taylor 
Louisrillc. Ky. 
Distillers 




OLD CHARTER DISTILLERY 

eSTABLISHeO 1874 

(WRIGHT a TAYLOR. SOLE owners! 

5th district. KENTUCKY 




Whiskev 

>Vi*s;?:i-ED IN BOND UNDER GOVE^f^.^Jclg'^ , 
'"" TO BE ABSOUUTtLY PUR£«*'' ' 








■~* 




As Served at 


.As Served at 






I3l)e ^I^ia^ara (Tlub 


Ol)e !Srooklawa (Tlub 






NIAGARA FA'-LS, N. Y. 


BKlUGEriiRT, mXNI-XtlCUT 

ft? 






* 


BROOKL.VWN STEWARD COCKTAIL 






MAOARA 01.115 Sl'RAV COt KTAIL 


Two shavings of C'r.ar.ge Peel. 






One-fourth Italian Vermouth. 


One-fifth French Vermouth. 






One-fourth French Vc-i mouth. 


One-fifth Italian Vermouth. 






Two-fourths Gordon Dry Gin. 


Three-fifths Dry Gni. 






Two daslies Oranec liitters 


Twist the Orange Pee! in mi.xing 






Two dashes Yelljw Chartreuse. 


glass (with peel) add ingredients. 






Stir well. 


Frappe well. 






Use Champagne glass, till stem 


Strain and serve ui cocktail glass 






with Carbonic. 


with tiny piece of Orange peel on 






One lump of ice. slice orange. 


top. 






Serve. 


"THE VENCS" 






NIA<i.Al{.V SUNSET 


The yoke of one egg. 






(^ne-third Italian Vciuoutli. 


Two-thirds Dry Gin. 






One-third French Vermouth. 


One-third Creme Yivttte. 






One-third Dry Gin. 


Sprig of Mint or dash of Creme 






Slice Orange. Frsppe. 


de Menthe and dash of Lime juice. 






Coclctail glass, t*'! one-half with 


Frappe well. 






Grenadine. Serve 


Strain and serve in cocktail glass. 






<^.^'^ 




a h. y^j^-^-i 






*6everage5 


1 Steuar.l. 






Sleu.ird, 


^eTLuxe 

Recipes for 

5llixe6 


























brinks 






.As SERS'En AT 


1 




\s Served \t 




Ol)e (Tu^amaca (Tlub 


Ob*i Kniversit^ (Tlub 






s \\ iiiEiif (■ \! irin.'.x i \ 


roUTI. \ \ 1). nk'lCON 






* 


* 
ONION COtKT.UI, 






reaspoonful Grenadine Syrnp. 


l''ill mixing glass up witli tine ice 






One-half pony brandy. 


Two or three dashes "f (Jrange 






Pineapple juice. 


r.itters. 






Seltzer. Ice. 


( tne-tliird French Vermouth. 






Mi.x in large highball glass, first 


Two third'- Dry Gin 






putting in the grenadine syrup, and 


1 bree or fetur da^he^ nt ( tinrMi 






brandy. The ice is then added, and 


Jnice, 






tlie remainder of the glass is filled. 


.Stir well and serve in fane\' eock- 






half and half of jiineapple juice and 


lail glass with small pearl oni"n in 






^rltzer. 


]il.ice of olive. 






MOIiM.NCi .\ITEU 








Juice of one lemon. 


PACinC COCKT.4IL 












Teaspoonfnl .Absinthe. 


(hie pony of Creme de Cocoa. 






One egg. 


' )ne pony of Apricot Brandy. 






Tablcspoonfnl sugar. 


Put in sliaker full of fine ice. 






Place in mixing glass with plenty 


Shake w^'ll and ser\'e in small stem 






"f ice, shake well, and strain into 


-''''^^■. 






large glass (8 oz.), -.nv] till with 


1 his is ,1 very |ioptiI;ir atlcr din- 






seltzer. 


ner 1 1 r i n ]< . 






Steward. 


Manager "f r.uifrt 









Old Grand-Dad Distillery Co. 

Louisville, Ky. 

Distillers 




As Served at 


LORD 1J.\LTI1U0BE tOCKTAIL 


Ol)e^en6euni5 (Elub 


Pill mixing glass with shaved ice. 


Juice of one-half lime. 


LciriSVILLE. KV. 


One jigger Scotch Whisky. 


* 


One-half jigger Red Curacoa. 




.Stir and strain in cocktail glass. 


ANANIAS PUNCH 




The juici.- of one dozen lemons 


PEXDEXMS COCKT.UL 


peelcu. 

line jigger Angoslnra Hitters. 


Kill mixing glass with shaved ice. 


'J'liree qniirl-; of Cliamp;ignc. 


Jm'ee of one-half lime. 


One qnarl of Apollinaris. 


One-third jigger Hungarian .Apri- 


One pint of eherrics. 
Put all the ingredients together in 
pmu'h bowl, mix uell, iee. and serve 


eotine. 

One jigger Dry Gin. 


in ehanipagnc goblets. 


Stir and strain in cocktail glass. 










Recipes for 










^Uixe6 
iDrinKs 




PEXDENNIS SnNT JULEI' 


PEM>EXM.S EGGNOO 


L'se silver cup. 


(<.)ne Gallon) 


Onedialf Innip of sngar dissolved 
with a litlle water; lill cup with 


T.ike the yellow of one dozi-n eggs. 


•^ha\'ed ice. 


One pound grannlati'd sugar. 


(3ne jigger of Kentucky Conrbon 


One teaspoon nnlmeg. 


\\ hisky. mix well with spr>on until 


One-half pnit cream, and he.il well 


frost appears on the cup. 


logether. Then t.d<e one <piart Ken- 


Then take alifiut twid\e sprigs of 


tucky Bourbon Whisky, one (piart 


fresh sweet nnnt, insert them in the 


Cognac, and out- [tint j.nnaic.i Rinn. 


iee, stems downward, sci the leaves 


beat .all together. Take one quart 


will be above, in the sh.ape of a bou- 


rich cream and lie.it until stitT, then 


quet, and serve with straws. 


,idd the .above mixlure very slowly. 




whipiiiiig uiUil well mixed. Serve in 


OLD FASmONEI) TODDV 


pmich cups. 


Dissolve onedialf lum|> of sug.ar 


•^ 


thoroughly. 


^ ' -4^^\^^ 


One cube of ice. 


5>*«nc^i^^ t^y-^-^'-^-Cm^-L-^ 


One jigger of whisky. 


v^ 


Stir well and serve in toddy glass. 


Superintendent. 



Brown-Forman Company 

Louisville. Ky. 

Distillers 




OF Old KENTWJCf 
UNDER NATIONAL 

^0225 



^fe? 0f"0LD k£nT^CKY VVHiSr. -_ 
:'^'tED UNDER NATIONAL PV^^ f" 






rr.'y 



.f.j_ 



^K 






/ 






/ 






^ 



'^-'-^CcM. . 



^./t^'^tS< 



^^-^ 



i 



c;^*^ 




READ THE LABEL TRY IT 



As Served at 


m.VMPAGNE CUP 


KnionTLeasuc (Tlub 


I'lepart in crystal pitcher in order 




ii.iiiK'd. 


NEW VORK, N. V. 


One pony M.iraschino. 


* 


One pony Orange Curacoa. 




One pony French Brandy. 


STEBIJNG EGGNOG 


The juice of i>ne fresh lime and 




Ihe rind. 


Be it understood that only the 


(Iiic quart champagne, cold. 


freshest and purest eggs, milk and 


1 )ne bnitlr Chill soda, cold. 


cream, and high class liquors he usrd- 


Ice. 


I'repare in order named. 


Whole slices ( daintily) cut of 


Take two large bowls (capacity 


oranges, pineapples and limes, si.x 


four gallons) separate 24 eggs; yolks 


sprigs of fresh mint, strawberries ou 


in one bowl, whites in another. Beat 


lop. 


the yolks with long wooden spoon 


while adding slowly one and one-half 






leverages 






^eTLuxe j 

Recipes for 










i!)rinKs 




pounds of powdered sugar. After 


The above reci|ie may be used also 


tliis is thoroughly smooth, and while 


with the following Cups: 


stirring rapidly, add slowly; 


Claret Cup, two limes. 


Two bottles French Brandy. 


Rhine Wine Cup. two limes. 


One-half bottle St. Croix Rum. 


Moselle Wine Cup. two limes. 


One-half pint Jamaica Rum. 


Sautcrne Cup. two linus. 


One-half pint Arrac. 


Sparkling Cider Cup four limes. 


Two gallons milk. 




Beat the whites of the eggs to a 


U.^^^.JA^ 


snowy froth, also one pint of cream, 


and add to the bowl with a large 


C7 


piece of ice. 


Steward. 


When served in glasses, grate a 




little nutmeg on top. 





Old Kentucky Distillery 

hnnrptirati-il 

Louisiille. Ky. 
Distillers 







As Served at 


.■\s Served at 


^lewyorkT^ltbUticdlub 


Obe (Talumet (Tlub 


NEW VOKK ( TKAVEKS ISLAND), N. Y. 


CHICAGO. ILLINOIS 


* 
OKANGE BLOSSOM 


CALIMET COCKTAIL 


One-third French Vermouth. 
One-third Italian Vermouth. 
One-third Gordon Gin. 
Plenty of orange juice. Frappe. 
Serve in whisky glass. 


Three dashes of .Acid Phosphad. 
One dash of .\ngostura Bitters, 
("incj-half jigger of Bourbon 
Whisky. 
(Jne-half jigger of Italian Ver- 


THE LADIES DREAM 

(3nc-half Maraschino. 
One-half Cream Yvette. 
Thick Cream on top. 
Serve in sherry glass. 


mouth. 

Stir and strain into a cocktail 
.glass. 

KLONDIKE 

Pare an orange as >"(.iu would an 


TBAVERS ISLAND COCKT.\IL 

One-third French Vermouth. 
One-third Plymonth Gin. 
One-third Duhonnet. Frappe. 
Serve in cocktail glass. 


apple. 

Use the juice of one ^r.-iuge. 

One jigger of whisky. 

Shake and strain in a large gl.ass 
and fill with liottle Ginger .Xle. 




leverages 

Recipes for 














brinks 




SAVAGE COCKTAIL 


riNE TREE 


C)ne-third Italian Vermnulh. 
Two-thirds Rye Whisky. 
Orange peel. Frappe. 
Serve in cocktail glass. 

DR. BIRCH COCKTAIL 

One-third French Vermouth. 
Two-thirds Nicholson Gin. Frappe. 
Serve in cocktail glass. 
(The two above cocktails are 
nanicMl for two members of the 


Two-thirds jigger of Tom (iin. 

One-third jigger of Italian Ver- 
mouth. 

Three sprigs of mint broken into 
small pieces, put in mixing glass with 
Iwo or three piecese of ice, and shake 
long enough to break the mint small 
.■nough to pass through strainer. 
Strain into cocktail glass and leave 
the small pieces ..f mint ibxit on top. 


Club. ) 

THE FAVORITE 

Juice of one lime. 
Three or four sprigs of mini 
crushed. 

One drink nf Gordon Gin. 
One bottle of imported Ginger .Me. 
Fill with fine ice and serve. 
(This makes a fine summer drink.) 


GROCE COCKT.VIL 

Two-thirds jigger of Tom Gin. 

One-third jigger of liali.an Ver- 
mouth. 

( )ne-fourth jigger of tirape Fruit 
juice. 

One-half glass of shaved ice. Shake 
and strain into cocktail glass. 


<^^^ (^^^^...^-^-^rS^ 


^^^4^ 7r /^^/^f 


Steward. 


\ ' 

Steward. 



Bernhcim 

Distilling 

Co. 

Louisiille. hy. 
Dislillen 



l^ 




ThePhil. 

Hollcnhach 

Co. 

Louisville, Ky. 
Distillers 




Bcrnheim 

f)istillinc/ 

Co. 

t.iiiiisritU: hy. 

l)islitU-rs 




D. Sachs 
c{: Sons 

Louisville, Ky. 
Distillers 




^\mAfi 




As Served at 


As SeRVT.D AT 


Mlaaufacturcrs' (Tlub 


C3l)e (Toutitrv (Tlub 


PHILADELPHIA. PENNSYLVANIA 


BROOKLINE, M .\SS,\CII USETTS 
LONE-TREE COCKTAII, 


* 




One-third Italian Vermouth. 


EASTER TONIC 


Two-thirds Old Tom Gin. 


One-half gallon Milk. 


Shake well in cracked ice and 




strain. 


One Pint Brandy. ( Whisky can 




be used.) 


.\HIERICAX BE.VUTY tOCKT.\IL 


One-fourth Pint Rum. 


One-third French Vermouth. 


Yolks of eight eggs, ihoronghly 


Two-thirds Old Tom Gin. 


beaten. 


Juice of half a lime. 

Shake well in cracked ice and 


One-half pound pulverized sugar. 


strain. 


Mix well the eggs, sugar and milk. 


M.*jnE T.VVLOR'S SISTER 


then add brandy and rum, nutmeg to 


One good-sized drink of Dry Gin. 


taste. Beat whites of eggs to perfect 


One Lime squeezed and dropped in. 
One bottle of Ginger Ale. 


froth and stir mixture thoroughly. 


For larger qu.anlitx-. increase in 


One cube of ice. 


proportion. 


Serve in extra large glass. 




leverages 






Recipes for 










iDrlnks 






Cr.OVER-LE.\F COCKTAIL 


i-oor JFizz 






Juice of a lime. 


Use a large glass. 


Teaspoonful of Grenadine Syrup. 


Three-fourtlis tablcspoonfnl of 


White of one egg. 


Sugar. 


One-half jigger of Dry Gin. 


Shake well in cracked ice and 


One egg, both white and yolk. 


strain . 


One Wine Glass of Gordon Gin. 


Float a Mint Leaf. 


The Juice of One Lemon. 




Fill glass with fine ice and shake 


BELLS EYE CUP 


well. 


One pint of sparkling cider. 


Strain in large glass and ,idd .\[)iil- 


One pint of Imported Ginger Ale. 


linaris Water. 


One glass of brandy. 
Ice and fruit in season. 






Serve in large glass pitcher, with 


/^^^-Z^^^ y^P 


a few sprigs of Mint. 


y'<^^§L^^^^ 


GREEN LIZARD 


'/^ 


One drink of Gin. 


Stcwnnl 


Green Menthe enough to color. 




Juice of one Lime. 




One bottle of Club Soda. 




t)ne cnho of ice. 




.Serve in extra large .glass. 



Green River 

Distilling 

Co. 

Owensboro. Ky. 

Distillers 




^msx3ss^ 




The 

Freiberg & 

Workum 

Co. 

Cinciiinati, O. 
Distillers 




Ph. 

Hamburger 

Co. 

I'iltsburgh, Pa. 
Distillers 




BRtDQEPORl 

''ONONGAHELA 

lur JlKiislif!! 

"•"BURGER DisraU"' 




Thompson 

Distilling 

Co. 

I'illshurgh, fa. 
Distillers 




RURE RY6' 












As Served at 


As Served at 






Knion^eague (Tlub 


UndianapoUs (Tlub 






I'HII.AUELl'IIIA. PENNSVIA'AMA 

* 

WHISKV PUNCH 


INDIA NAPOI.LS, INDIANA 






RICHELIEU COCKTAIL 






One portion whisky. 


One-half jigger Dubonnet. 






Juice of one lemon. 


One-half jigger Flennessy XXX. 






One pony Curacon. 


One-half jigger Italian Vermouth. 






( )iie flash St. Croix Kiiiii. 


Two dashes Peychaud. 






Sugar. 


Two pieces orange peel ; sqeeze in 






Shake well, and serve in siii:ill gob- 
ht with :i slice of Orani;r .ami Pine- 


shaking cup. 






Proceed in the same way other 






.ipple. 


cocktails are made, and place cherrv 






DOBRIXCE COCKTAIL 


in glass. 






Une-third Italian Vermouth. 








Two-thirds Gordon Gmi. 


/? /9 






One Slice of Orange Peel. 


( -^ 






Sliake well. 

Serve in silver cooler 


cd^ 


—-y ^-tc ^ 




^^?^^^^^^.^^^^ 




«OODMAX COCKT.^II. 


Maii.'igi.T. 






(Jne-third French Vermouth. 








Two-thirds Gordon Gin. 








Orange Rind and Frappe. 

ST.Ul COCKT.VIL 










^xV 




One-third Italian 

Vermouth. 
Two-thirds Apple Jack. 




















Recipes for 

!5tlixe6 
















AJIERIC.4N BEAUTY 








One-third Italian 

Vermouth. 
Two-thirds Gordon Gin. 


T)rink5 








A little lime juice. 












As Served at 






ZEELAXD COCKTAIL 








One-third Italian Vermouth. 


ObeTElKs' (Tlub 






Two-thirds Jamaica Rum. 






Three dashes Russian Kummel. 


NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA 






AITEB-DINNEB COCKTAIL 


* 






One-half jigger Apricot Brandy. 








One-half jigger White Alenthe. 


MeGBONEY PDNCH 






One dash Russian Kummel. 


One tablespoonfu! powdered sugar. 






Juice of one-half Lime and Frappe. 


Two tablespoonfuls Lime Juice. 






HOT IKON 


One teaspoonful Raspberry Syrup. 
A dash of Kirschwasser. 






(Will make two drinks.) 


lialf gill of Rye whisky. 






Juice of one-half Grape Fruit. 


One tablespoonful of Rum. 






(Jne-half jigger of Benedictine. 


Enough Seltzer to half Till lemon- 






One jigger brandy. 


ade glass. 






(jnc jigger Apricot brandy. 


Stir well and fill glass with cracked 






Shake well and serve in a small 


ice. 






beer glass or claret glass. 


BAMAKOOL.4 






J.VCK ROSE COCKT.VIL 


One-half Itali.;n Vermouth. 






Juice of One-half Lime. 


One-half French Vermouth. 






One-third Grenadine. 


Dash Byrrh Bitters. 






Two-thirds .Apple Brandy. 


Fill glass with cracked ice. 






Shake well. 


^^ , ^ /^ 






Serve in cocktail glass. 


C^^^^'TT^ 






^>^=^^.i^^-<::=^='-^^(^&iyi^ CK^ .- 


Steward. 






/y Steward. 






_ 




_ 



Taylor & 
\\ ilUiims 

/.iiuisiillc. I\fi. 
Distillers 




ki^ WHISKEY. 



Ijiiisviiu.Im 



/;i;." 




Schenley 

/)istilli)u/ 

Co. 

Lucesco, Pit. 
Dislillers 





Bottled in bond 

SCHENLEY DISTILLING CO. 

I->l STl Ll-C R& 



The 
A wcricitn 
Distilliiii/ 

Co. 

I\kin. Ill 
ni-lilli'rs 



i 




Bluthcnthal 
& Bickart 

Ballitnorv. Md. 
Dislilkrs 



MARK 
ROGER 



««YURt 
WIISKET 



As Served at 

Ob<i 'Waldorf-Astoria 

NEW YIIRK, N, Y. 
HAZEI/rON COCKTAIL 

(Jnu-half Nicholson (iiii. 
One- fourth French Vcrniuutli. 
One-fourth Italian Vermouth. 
Frappe with a few sprigs of fresh 
mint. 

Serve in cocktail glass. 

tiOOD TIMKS CtXKTAIL 

Two-thirds Tom Gin. 

( liir-tliird French Vermouth. 

Stir .and strain. 

Ser\e in cocktail glass. 



WAI^UOllF ROSE 

ll.ilf Dry Gin. 
I ln< -fiinrth Apple Whisk\-. 
< )ne-foin"th Grenailine. 
juice of one Lime, 
k'r.ippe thoroughly. 



:^ 



evcrages 

Recipes for 

^ixe6 
brinks 



As Served .\t 

Auditorium Tfotel 

Aii>iTORii!M r.iN nzz 

Regular Gin Fizz with white of 
eg.e. 

Put in sprig of mint wlien served. 

ISItAIN DUSTKK 

Juice of one-half Lime. 
Three dashes Peychaud liitlers. 
One-half pony .Absinthe. 
One-half pony Anisette. 
White of egg. 
Frappe. 

ri!IN< i:SS <<»( Ki'AIL 

One-lhird Fre:ich \'ermouth. 
One-third Italian Vermouth. 
One-third Ahsinthe. 
Frappe. 

AllDITORIl'M COCKTjVIL 

One-half jigger Dry Gin. 
One-third ji.g.ger French 
Vermouth. 



M-appe. 



CLOVER CLUB 

juice of half lemon. 
White of an egg. 
Half teaspoonful powdered sugar. 
< )ne drink of Plymouth Gin. 
I )nr pi'Uy Raspberry Syrup. 
I''r.ip|>e tlioroughly .and serve in 
el.irei ghi'-s with a sprig of mint on 

lop. 

VVALDOKF Q^JEB^'S 

Two slices pineapple well nuid- 

<lle,l. 

One-half Dry Gin. 
One-fourth French Vermouth. 
One-fourth Italian Vermouth. 
Sm.ill piece of or.ange well trapped. 

W.VLDORF SI'KCIAI, 

juice of one Lime. 
( Ine drink Apricotine 
Frappe thorouglily and serve in 
cocktail glass. 




d^eSTzf 



^e 



^alv<jJL 



Manager. 



AiuiTomi.M <;i: 

juice one-half lime 
Small toddy. 
Spoonful Grenadine 
Three-fourths jigger 

Brandy. 
Frappe. 



Syrup. 
.\pple 



WILD IRISH ROSE 

Use highball .glass. 

One-half lime muddleil. 

Small toddy. 

Spoonful Grenadine S)rup. 

Three-fourths jigger \r\A\ Whisky. 

Lump highhall ice. 

Fill nj) with seltzer. 

rOOTE'S SUMMER SOllR 

juice one-half lemon. 

Three-fourths jigger good r.otn-bcHi 
wliisky. 

One dessert spoonful sirgar. 

Frappe . 

Serve in regular [\/?. glass, with 
Imnp highliall ice. and fill up with 
still water. Gin, lu'anrly. Scotch, or 
anv liquor ilc^irrd can be used in 
this drink, and makes a delightful 
summei' 1)everage. 

Manager Litpior Department. 



Felton & Son 

Boston. Mass. 

Distillers 





As Served at 

Hfotel ^elve6erc 

BALTIMORE, MARYLAND 



FROZEN RYE 

Juice of half lime. 

Few dashes orange juice. 

Few dashes pineapple syrup. 

Few dashes orange Curncoa. 

Balance rye whisky. 

Frozen Scotch or gin same as rye. 

Serve in large champagne glass. 
Put slice of orange and slice of pine- 
apple in glass, allowing same to stick 
out beyond top uf glass. Fill same 
witli fine ice and pour drink over 
same, with cherry on top. Serve 
with straw. 



MOON COCKT.4II, 

Distinctly Our Own 

Few dashes of Grenadine Syrup. 
One-sixth of Italian Vermouth. 
One-sixth of French. Vermouth. 
Two-thirds Apple Brandy'. 
Stirred witli spoon or shaken. 
Cocktail glass. 



BELVEDERE COCKT.Ul, 
.V tiortd Morning Bracer 

(.)nc-lhird Italian Vermouth. 
(")ne-thiril Gunlf.n Gnr 
One-third Irish Whisky. 
Few dashes of .Absinthe. 
Cocktail glass. 
Well frapped. 



leverages 

Recipes for 

5tlixe6 
brinks 



ROYAL SMILE 

Juice of half a lime. 
One-fourth Grenadine Syrup. 
One-fourth Gordon Gin. 
One-half Apple Brandy. 
Cocktail glass. 

CLOVER CLUB 

Juice of lime. 

Few dashes of Grenadine Syrup. 

(Due-sixth Italian Vermouth. 

One-sixth French Vermouth. 

Two-thirds gin. 

Add white of an egg. Frappc well. 

Dress with three mint leaves on 
edge of glass. 

Serve in claret glass. 

In season use raspberries instead of 
Grenadine. Macerate the raspber- 
ries with muddler. 



PERKECT COCKT.^IL 

One-sixth Italian Vermouth. 
One-sixth French Vermouth. 
Two-thirds Gordon Gin. 
Well frapped with p'cce of orange 
]iee!. 

Cocktail glass. 

PICK .ME ur 

Juice ipf ulinle oi'ange. 
Jig.ger of gin. 
White of an egg. 
Highball glass. 
Well frapped. 




Wine Steward. 



Canvtt 
tt Cu. 

Xorfolk. \'a. 

Miituihuttirvrs 






m 



WKIMTN I 




Garrett 
«£- Co. 

Norfolk. V'a. 
Manufacturers 




The 

M. Hommel 

Wine Co. 

S mduski/. (). 
Manufacturers 


I 


i 












* "i^ 


*'Hdmmel 

j^I^ITt SUPERIEUtf ^ 




^^■■^ 





The 

Duroy & 

Haines Co. 

Sandusky, O. 
Manufacturers 




Gol(|(^^^<r^dr 




As Served at 


S.\ZERAC COCKT.VIL 




StCbarl^slfotel 


.\ famous Southern cocktail, which 
has the biggest call in the market in 
the South and repLaces our .X'orthern 




\EU liKLEA.NS, Lol.ilhlAX A 


.Manhattan. 




* 


Smash lump of ':ugar in old faslmjn 




cocktail glass. 




ST. CHARI.KS t'OOI.KR 


.\dd three drops Peych.aud Hitters, 




This drink is Ihc most sunihiii!; 


Two drops Angostnr.i. 




ami cold svimnnir drink, nuicli liked 


1 Ine drink good rye whisky. 




liv everybody who has tried il. .ind 


Ice and strain to another ice-cold 




is at present making a hit; hit. 


old-fashion cocktail glass wilh :i dash 




Serve like highball in Tom Collins 


of Absinthe in. then sipice/e oil of 




glass with ice. 


li,inon peel. 




Jnico of one lennMi. 






(")ne drink of gin 


■TlIK THREE (iRACES" COCKTAII, 




< )ne-half drink of ("rrenadine S\ rnp. 


For [lersiins fond of Verimulh or 




,\ild Seltzer {<• laste 


Duljonnet, this has the richest lla\-or 




ST. (II-VKI.KS < IICIvi'.MI, 


.and pleasain .aronia, .as well as taste, 
and is consiilered to give an unus- 








Jiiiee of one hnie. 


ually strong appettite. 




White of line egg. 


One-third Dnhonnc-t. 




d'hree liflhs (."".nrilmi Ciin. 


(">ne-thiril French Verinonii' 




Two-hfths (irenailine or l\as|il)erry 


( hie-third ( )ran'4i; ( iin. 




S> rnp. 


Frajipe and str.nn to cockl.iil glass 




l'rap|ie and strain In eneklail glass 






and serve with a mint leaf on top. 








leverages 








. ^i>-«i 








i)e ILuxe 

Recipes for 














^ixe6 
brinks 






RUSSIAN CO( liT.VII, 






.\ drink which is in the List year 


O.JEN tOCKI All. 




much appreciated in the Northern 


or 




p.irt of Europe, and is lately intro- 


SP.VNISH ABSINTHE (<)( KTAII. 




duced here, where it has proven to be 






appreciated by connoisseurs. 


Is much used in .Vexv Orleans, and 




Three-fifths Vodka. 


lielongs to the ilrinks which made 




Two-fifths f<uhinoy (a Russian 


New Orleans famous, l'"or people 




cherry cordial made id' cherry 


who like absiinhe. llns is \rr\ ap- 




stones.) 


petizing. 




Frappe and str.iined. 


One drink (.)jen in large glass of 




I This drink is \cr>- strong.) 


ice, keep on dropping Selt/er in 








HICKORY (OCKT.VII, 


glass, and stir with spoon until the 




Supposed to 111.' origin.ited b\- old 


outside of glass is frozen, and your 




General Hickory, and ;iuuh n-.ed in 


cocktail is fmisbed. Tin n add a few 




Xew Orleans. 


drops of Feychaud Xew ( Irleaiis I'.il 




One-half French \'ernioulh. 


lers, and str.im to a cockl.ail .gl.iss. 




()ne-half Tlalian X'ermnnth. 






( )ne teaspoonfnl .\nii I'ienn. 






Iced and strained to cocktail gl.iss. 






then squeeze oil of a piece of lemon 






therein. 







A. & H. 

Sancho's 

Anumlillado 
Pun Quixote 

Samuel ^ 
StreitCo. ^ 

Impiirling 
. Xiients 

Ai'ic York 








DON QUIXOTI 





Sonn Bros. 
Co. 

IVew York 

Importing 
Agents 




G. Ceribelli 
& Co. 

New York 

Importing 
Agents 




J*^'-' » C. ikwIyom, wi iuiKl la*'-'* ' 




Moehriny 
& Co. 

Xew York 

Importing 
Agents 




WNERALE UA' ^v.^t 



VICHY 



luRCED!!^ 











As Served at 


-•\s Served at 






St.CbarlesTfotel 


TfotcllLa Salle 






NEW ORLEANS. MiriSIANA 


CIIICAIjO, ILLINOIS 

* 
1..V SAI.LE COCKTAIL 






* 






A KKJAII 

One ounce \V\.ii:il I'nckink Rnni 
Puncli. 

Two ounce-; old liramly. 

l''ra|i|ie and ser\e in ^^niall Burlou 
Ale ala-^s — enough for two. 


The juice of one-sixteemh of an 
ordinary grape fruit. 

Equal parts of Dry Gm and Italian 
\'eruioutii. 

Frapped and served in a cocktail 
gl.iss, nsin.g the large wliite grape in 
place of the cherry or olive. 






A I'EQl'OT I'IZZ 

One and one-half ounces PI 
gin. 

Juice of one-half lime. 
One teas.poonful of sugar. 
One-half white of one egg. 
Three sprigs of mint. 
Well shaken with coarse ict 
Strain and fizz with carbonic 


\moiUh 
water. 


r.\ SALLE FIZZ 

The LaSalle Fizz is made from the 
juice of one-half of an orange, one- 
sixth of grapefruit, one tahlespoonful 
of sugar, one jigger of Gin, and pre- 
pari-d and served as other Fizzes. 




t&<2.vera3e5 

Recipes for 


u 

Wine Stew.ard. 






















i!)rinKs 










As Served at 






.V I'EQIOT l»E I.I'XE 


^ort Orange (Tlub 






One ounce Old Brown Sherr\. 


.\LBANV, N. V. 






One ounce old brandy. 


* 






One ounce of J.nnaica Rum. 


•■aLXE BIG" 






Peel i.if a whole lemon and one slice 


Large bar glass full of finely 






of inside. 

One egg. 

Three ounces suyar. 

One-fourth [liiit nf cream. 

Shaken well with coarse ice. 

Served in small stetu pimch glasses 
— enough fur four .glasses. 


chopped ice. 

Juice of one lime. 
One jigger Plymouth Gin. 
One bottle C. & C. Ginger Ale. 
Three or four sprigs nnnt. 

I-KKSIOEST COCKTAIL 

( )ne-third French W'rmonth, N. P. 

Twii-thirds Gordon GitL 

Two dashes Chartreuse Yellow. 

Orange Peel. 

Frappe and strain into cockt.iil 








Ldns^ \ sr ^liMit sir.-iw. 






Steuanl. 


Manager. 












The 

Flcisch- 

mann Co. 

New York 

Distillers 





Baird- Daniels 

Co. 

.Wew York 

Dislillers 






1 °: 

00 



BK3?5^ 




tfc Co. 

Peoria, III. 

Dislillers 






Some jF'ainous -Ancestral 


ECCNOG 




!^lugrass ^cccipcs 


One dnzen leaspoonfuls of grann- 
hited sugar. 

Si.K cocktail glassfuls of Bourbon 




* 


• whisky. 

Five cocktail glassfuls of rum. 




KUNTrCKY ^UNT Jl I,Kl> 


Three cocktail gla.ssl'uls of apple 




Select twelve full spvigs of mini 


brandy. 




with long" stems, twist the Imnch 


Three cockl.iil gla-'^fu!? of Prench 








twice, and st.nul them in n julep 


brandy. 




glass. 






Fill with linely crushed ice and 


tOiK- wlKde nutme.g. grated. 








pour over this one heapiiig teaspoon- 


P>e;il the yolks of li.urleen eggs 




ful of granulated sugar th.at has been 


uiUil very liglit. 




thoroughly dissolved in two lahle- 


Add sugar, and Ijeal again until 




spoonfuls of hot water 


thoroughly dissolved 




Stir slightly to chill. 


Then add half of the whites that 




Fill glass with old P.ourlion whisky, 


h.ive been beaten separately until very 




pour carefully that all the whisky 


stitf. 




may stand on top of the water. 


Beat mixture agani, ,u.d add. first 




Let set for ahout one minute, and 


whisky, then rum, thci; brandy, a 




stir hefore drinking. 


glass at a time, stirring all the while. 




Place springs of niinr on one side 


Now stir in nutmeg. 




of the cup and drink from the other. 


-Add three pints of fre-,h cream, let 






leverages 








. *— ^f^ 








iDe ILuxe 

Recipes for 














5tlixe5 
iDrinks 






Ol-n F.\SIIIOJf KENTVCKY .VPri.E 


stand a while (it possible over 




TODDY 


night) and then beat in three pints 




or 


of wdiipped cream that has stood in 




.\rri,E ,j.\(K 


freezer until thoroughly chilled. 






Serve in old-fashion (ggnog cups. 




Select one dozen nppies and core. 






but do not peel. 






Bake dry until nearly done, when 


OLD KEXTPCKY TODDY 




pour on them one pin' of scalding 


Take .1 large silver goblet or a 




water and one heaping pint ol gran- 




ulated sugar. 


large toddy glass. 




Let cook done, scr)rching .1 little 


Fill tuo-thirds fnl. with small 




lirown on boltoni 


lumps of ice (not too small, how- 
ever). 




Pour all in a Iiowl ;'nd adil one 






quart of Bourbon whisky and one 


Add one dessert s[)Oonfnl of granu- 




quart of apple brandy. 


lated su.gar that has beti: previously 






dissolved in one teaspoonful of wa- 




One-half nutmeg grated. 


ter. 




A small pinch of brown cloves. 


Stir until there is a cold frost on 




The gratetl peel of one orange 


cup. 




(using only the very yellow part. 
none of the white). 


Then Idl with old Bourbon whisky. 




-.aving room for one c'-ssi-rt spoon- 




.Add water to suit l.asle of ihe 


ful of fine peach brandy. 




ilrinkcr. 


flip off with a long, very thin 




Serve hot in small slarbet gl.asses. 


piece nf oraii,ge peel 



Geo. A. 
Dickel 
& Cu. 

Mashville, 
Tenn. 

Distillers 




EOAQlCKEL^Ca^ 

IV»'[jl.STlLLEi?v <, 




Italo- 

American 

Stores 

Xc'if )'ork 

Imparlini) 
Agents 




§twpuf^l 



'ma^k^i 



y SOCIIT* (MfOHIM* 



The 

(Juinine- 

1 1 hisky Co. 

Louisville, Ky. 

Distillers 




miNE-AVJiis: 



"W»llC»t -MIKkl AM p.. 



WWM "\;ii<k\ TlV. Inui*>** 




T o i> N r I 




Italo- 

A merican 

Stores 

Xeif York 

Importing 
Agents 




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